DIER'S  PRACTICAL  GUIDE, 

A  TREATISE  ON  THE  ART  OF 

DYEING  WOOL,  SHODDMND  COTTON, 

EMBRACING  IN  ALL  OVER 

Two  Hundred  and  Fifty  Practical  Eeceipts, 

ACCOMPANIED  WITH  OVER 

TWO  HUNDRED  AND  FIFTY  DYED  SAMPLES. 

ALSO  CONTAINS  A  FULL  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  DYE- 
STUFFS  AND  CHEMICALS  USED  IN  DYEING,  AND 
THE  EXTRACTING  OF  COTTON  FROM  WOOL. 


BY  FRANK  SHERRY, 

Practical  Dyer  of  30  Years'  Experience. 


F  RAN  K  LI  N,   MAS  S.  : 
Franklin  Steam  Printing  House, 
Cotton's  Block,  Depot  Street. 
1884. 


INTRODUCTION. 


 #. 

Having  been  urged  by  manufacturers  and  by  many  whose 
taste  drifts  to  the  mysterious  art  of  dyeing,  to  impart  my 
practical  knowledge  of  thirty  years'  experience  in  all 
branches  of  dyeing,  and  to  produce  it  in  the  most  simple 
manner,  so  it  can  be  understood  by  any  wishing  informa- 
tion on  the  subject.  I  do  not  propose  to  waste  my  time 
and  expense  in  filling  up  this  work  with  chemistry,  nor  in 
filling  its  pages  with  receipts  written  by  chemists,  with 
no  practical  work  about  them,  as  it  would  be  only  a  waste 
of  time. 

All  the  dyer,  and  those  who  are  interested  in  dyeing, 
require,  is  a  straightforward  and  practical  receipt  to  get 
the  color  right.  All  the  receipts  given  in  this  book 
are  practical  and  my  latest  improvements.  A  treatise 
on  this  particular  branch  of  dyeing  of  cotton,  wool  and 
shoddy,  has  at  no  time  been  more  imperatively  called  for 
than  at  present.  When  the  introduction  of  more  or  less 
shoddy  into  almost  all  kind  of  woollen  goods  has  become 
everything  but  universal,  a  dyer,  in  coloring  such  stock, 
has  a  great  deal  to  contend  with  in  obtaining  even  colors 


4 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


from  the  various  mixtures  of  shoddy,  to  match  with  colors 
from  white  wool,  and  to  resist  fulling  of  the  same.  These 
are  great  obstacles  and  have  confined  many  manufacturers 
to  using  less  colors  on  such  stock,  owing  to  the  lack  of 
practice  of  some  dyers  in  obtaining  the  required  shades. 
To  overcome  these  difficulties  is  the  intention  of  this 
work.  I  think  ■  dyers  and  manufacturers  will  find  it  to 
their  advantage  to  ^^wiine  the  contents  of  this  book. 
I  do  not  pretend  t^^y  that  this  book  will  make  any 
manufacturer  his  own  dyer,  by  any  means.  If  that  was 
so  they  would  all  have  books  and  do  their  own  coloring. 
It  requires  a  lifetime  of  practice  and  anxiety  to  become 
a  good  dyer. 

FRANK  SHERRY. 


MORDANTS. 


Should  each  dye-drug  impart  its  own  color  to  cloth,  and 
if  there  existed  a  sufficient  variety..^  these  drugs  for  the 
various  shades  of  colors,  dyeing  would  be  a  very  simple 
art,  as  it  would  only  be  necessary  to  dissolve  the  dyestuft' 
and  impregnate  the  goods.  But  so  far  from  this  being  the 
case,  if  we  except  indigo,  there  is  scarcely  a  dyestufi'  that 
imparts  its  own  color  to  goods ;  nay,  the  most  part  of  the 
dye-drugs  used,  have  so  weak  an  affinity  for  cotton  goods, 
especially  that  they  impart  no  color  sufficiently  permanent 
to  deserve  the  name  of  a  dye.  These  circumstances  render 
dyeing  sufficiently  intricate  and  makes  it  more  dependent 
upon  science.  Indeed,  it  is  only  by  the  nicest  arrangement 
of  a  few  chemical  laws  that  the  dyer  is  enabled  to  turn  to 
advantage  the  various  coloring  matter  of  which  he  is  in 
possession.  When  the  dyer  finds  that  there  is  no  affinity 
between  the  goods  and  any  coloring  substance  which  is 
put  into  his  possession,  he  endeavors  to  find  a  third  sub- 
stance wdiich  has  a  mutual  attraction  for  the  cloth  and  col- 
oring matter,  so  that  by  combining  this  substance  with  the 
cloth,  and  then  passing  the  cloth  through  the  dyeing  solu- 
tion, the  coloring  matter  combines  with  the  substance 
which  is  upon  the  goods  and  constitutes  a  dye. 


6 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Dyestuffs  and  Chemicals. 


PICRIC  ACID. 

This  substance  is  also  known  as  carbazotic  acid,  or  trin- 
itrophe7tylic  acid.  This  acid  is  obtained  by  the  oxidation 
of  carbolic  acid  and  by  nitric  acid.  It  is  a  yellow  crystal- 
ized  substance  which  is  readily  dissolved  in  hot  water,  but 
difficult  in  cold  water.  It  is  also  soluble  in  alcohol.  It  is 
used  for  dyeing  silk  and  wool  yellow,  and  also  for  green, 
with  sulphate  and  extract  of  indigo. 

In  France  there  are  over  one  hundred  tons  manufactured 
annually,  but  the  greater  part  is  used  in  making  picrate 
gunpowder  used  for  the  needle  gun. 

ORCHIL,  or  ARCHIL. 

This  article  comes  to  the  dyer  in  casks  containing  a 
crimson-colored  liquor  and  a  large  amount  of  weed.  This 
weed  is  called  by  botanists  lichen  rocella^  and  is  found  in 
Sweden,  Ireland,  Wales  and  Cape  de  Verd  Islands.  The 
best  is  from  the  latter  place. 

It  is  made  as  follows:  The  lichen  or  weed  is  first  dried 
and    ground    to  a  pulp.     The  pulp  is  then  placed  in 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


7 


wooden  troughs  with  close  fitting  covers  to  them.  The 
pulp  is  then  sprinkled  with  ammonia,  lime  and  wine, 
which  causes  fermentation.  It  is  stirred  up  at  intervals, 
and  more  ammonia  is  added.  It  requires  from  six  to  eight 
days  to  develop  the  color ;  it  is  then  put  up  in  casks  and 
ready  for  use. 

CUDBEAR. 

This  is  Archil  in  a  dry,  powdered  state,  and  is  of  a  red- 
dish color.  Although  the  colors  given  by  it  are  fugitive, 
still  it  is  used  considerably*iiii^^<3Uillen  dyeing  for  giving 
logwood  blue  the  indigo  shade,  and  in  doing  lavender  on 
wool.  It  is  used  with  camwood  as  a  bottom  for  indigo 
blues.    Cudbear  works  with  the  same  re-agents  as  Archil. 

Cudbear  should  be  mixed  with  water  into  a  paste  before 
putting  it  into  the  dye-bath,  or  else  it  would  float  on  the 
surface.    It  requires  no  boiling  to  dissolve  it. 

ANNOTTO. 

Annotto  is  a  shrub  which  was  originally  a  native  plant 
of  South  America,  but  is  now  cultivated  in  the  East  Indies 
and  St.  Domingo,  and  called  by  botanists  bix  orrellana. 
It  grows  to  the  height  of  eight  feet.  The  leaves  are  divid- 
ed by  fibres  of  a  brownish-red  hue,  are  about  four  inches 
long,  having  a  broad  base  terminating  in  a  sharp  point. 
The  shrub  bears  an  oblong  pod  resembling  a  chestnut  burr. 
At  their  first  formation  they  are  a  beautiful  rose  color,  and 
as  they  ripen  they  become  a  dark  brown,  and  then  burst 
open,  showing  a  crimson  pulp  which  contains  three  or  four 


8 


THE  DYER  S  PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


seeds  similar  to  raisin  stones.  The  pod  is  then  taken, 
stripped  of  its  husks  —  the  seeds  are  rubbed  together  in 
water,  which  deprives  them  of  all  impure  matter^  con- 
tained in  the  seed.  The  coloring  matter  is  then  allowed 
to  settle  and  the  supernatant  liquor  is  drawn  off,  and  the 
coloring  principle,  or  annotto  left  to  dry,  when  it  will 
change  to  a  dark  brown  color,  having  no  taste,  but  a  dis- 
agreeable smell  when  brought  into  market. 

BRAZIL-WOOD,  or  HYPERNIC. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  this  wood,  and  they  are 
distinguished  from  each  other  by  the  name  of  the  place 
from  which  they  are  obtained,  such  as  Pernambuco,  Japan 
and  Nicaragua.  The  last  named  wood  is  sometimes  called 
Santa  Martha  wood.  They  all  -  give  a  good  red,  and  in 
relation  to  dyeing  are  considered  as  only  different  names 
for  dyestuffs  that  produce  similar  coloring  effects.  The 
hypernic  wood  gives  a  more  blue  tint  to  the  red  than  the 
other  kinds.  The  hypernic  wood  is  the  best  for  coloring 
garnets,  rubies  and  maroons  on  wool,  on  account  of  its  not 
being  such  a  decided  red  as  the  other  woods. 

BARWOOD. 

This  wood  is  brought  principally,  from  Sierra  Leone 
and  the  regions  of  Africa.  It  is  a  hard  resinous  wood, 
and  is  considered  by  some  chemists,  to  be  the  same  as 
Sanders,  or  Sanders  wood.  This  dyestuff  is  always  re- 
ceived by  the  dyer  in  a  ground  state,  as  it  would  be  almost 
impossible  to  extract  its  coloring  matter  by  boiling  in 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


9 


water  if  it  was  used  in  chip.  The  wood  is  of  a  bright  red 
color,  and  imparts  but  a  very  slight  color  to  the  saliva. 
Its  coloring  principles  are  similar  to  camwood  and  Sand- 
ers ;  but  the  color  given  by  it  has  a  bluer  cast,  yet  it  yields 
a  coloring  matter  that  is  permanent,  with  or  without  a 
mordant.  Barwood  requi'es  more  boiling  than  other 
woods,  to  bring  into  solution  all  its  coloring  principles. 

CAMWOOD. 

This  is  another  species  of  red  woods,  and  grows  in  Sierra 
Leone  and  the  countries  adjacent  to  the  Bight  of  Berrin, 
and  has  chemical  properties  and  nature  very  similar  to 
barwood  and  sanders,  and  is  called  by  botanists  bois  rouge^ 
santal  rouge.  It  contains  more  coloring  matter  or  princi- 
ple than  sanders  or  barwood,  and  has  a  more  permanent 
color.  It  comes  to  the  dyer  in  a  ground  state  the  same  as 
barwood  and  sanders.  It  is  more  extensively  used  in 
woollen  dyeing  than  either  of  the  other  red  vvoods,  for  the 
reason  given  above,  and  is  similar  to  barwood.  It  will 
give  a  permanent  color  with  or  without  a  mordant.  Cam- 
wood gives  out  it|  color  with  great  reluctance. 

CATECHU,  or  CUTCH. 

This  is  a  dry  extract  prepared  from  a  sensitive  plant 
called  terra  japonico.,  and  contains  a  large  amount  of  tan- 
nin. It  grows  in  the  mountainous  districts  of  Hindoostan, 
and  growls  to  about  twelve  feet  in  height.  The  trunk  is 
about  one  foot  in  diameter  and  is  covered  with  a  thick, 
dark  brown  bark. 


10 


THE   dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


The  extract  is  obtained  in  the  following  manner  :  The 
plant  is  cut  down  and  all  the  exterior  white  wood  cut  into 
chips.  These  chips  are  put  into  unglazed  pots  and  enough 
water  added  to  cover  them.  Heat  is  then  applied  and 
when  half  the  water  is  evaporated  the  decoction  is  poured 
into  a  shallow  earthen  vessel  and  reduced  two-thirds  by 
boiling.  It  is  then  set  away  to  cool  for  one  or  two  days  ; 
then  afterwards  evaporated  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  it  being 
stirred  occasionally  during  that  process.  After  it  is  re- 
duced to  a  certain  thickness,  it  is  spread  upon  mats  that 
are  sprinkled  with  the  ashes  of  cow-dung.  Strings  are 
laid  so  as  to  divide  this  mass  into  quadrangular  pieces.  It 
is  then  completely  dried  in  the  sun,  after  which  it  is  ready 
for  the  market  and  for  the  dye-house. 

ALUM. 

This  is  an  earthly  salt  and  is  extensively  used  in  dyeing 
and  calico  printing,  in  combination  with  other  substances. 
In  cotton-yarn  dyeing  it  is  used  in  the  form  of  an  acetate 
of  alumnia,  or  the  so-called  red  liquor.  In  woollen  dyeing 
it  is  used  as  a"  mordant,  or  preparation  for  nearly  all  the 
different  shades,  along  with  tartar.  Alum  is  what  chem- 
ists denominate  a  double  salt,  it  being  composed  of  two 
sulphates,  the  sulphate  of  alumnia  and  sulphate  of  potash. 
This  salt  has  been  known  and  in  general  use  among  dyers 
since  the  earliest  accounts  we  have  of  their  processes,  but 
the  true  nature  of  its  composition  was  not  known  until  the 
present  century. 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


11 


AMMONIA. 

Ammonia  occurs  in  the  atmosphere.  Ammonical  salts 
are  met  with  in  a  few  minerals  and  in  volcanic  districts, 
but  the  greater  part  of  ammonia  and  ammonial  salts  used 
industrially,  are  obtained  from  the  dry  distillation  of  coals, 
bones  and  animal  substances ;  also  by  the  distillation  of 
stale  urine  (lant)  and  from  water-gas,  or  more  properly 
speaking,  water  which  coal-gas  has  passed  through.  Am- 
monia is  composed  of  one  part  nitrogen  and  three  parts 
hydrogen  condensed  to  two  volumes  of  ammonia  gas, 
which  is  colorless  and  has  a  peculiar  and  well-known  odor, 
with  a  sharp,  biting  taste.  Another  method  of  preparing  (>r 
manufacturing  aqua  ammonia  is  by  decomposing  caustic 
lime  with  sal-ammoniac  or  sulphate  of  ammonia.  Am- 
monical gas  is  set  free  and  then  is  absorbed  by  water,  care 
being  taken  that  the  lime  is  in  excess. 

Sal-ammoniac  of  commerce  we  find  either  in  a  crystalina 
state,  or  as  a  compact,  fibrous,  sublimed  material,  exhibit- 
ing the  appearance  of  having  been  formed  in  layers. 

Sal-ammoniac  is  used  in  the  woollen  dye-house  for  scour- 
ing wool,  and  with  logwood  in  dyeing  some  particular 
shades  of  purples,  violets  and  dahlias. 

COCHINEAL. 

This  coloring  material  is  a  small  insect  called  caccus 
cacti  found  on  small  species  of  the  cactus  plant,  but  more 
especially  upon  the  napal  plant  and  cactus  opuntia.  This 
insect,  as  well  as  the  plant  on  which  it  feeds,  is  cultivated 


12 


THE  dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


in  Mexico,  Java,  Algeria  and  Central  America.  The  male 
insect  is  of  no  value  as  a  coloring  material,  and  he  is 
winged,  while  the  female  is  wingless.  The  female  insects 
are  collected  twice  a  year,  immediately  after  they  have 
been  fecundated  and  have  laid  eggs  for  the  reproduc- 
tion of  young.  They  are  then  collected  by  shaking  them 
from  the  plant  on  cotton  sheets,  and  are  killed  either  by 
steam  or  by  the  heat  of  an  oven,  but  usually  by  the  last 
method.  Two  varieties  are  known  to  the  trade,  the  black 
and  silver  colored  cochineal. 

CARMINE. 

Carmine  is  made  by  boiling  out  the  color  from  the  cochi- 
neal, then  filtering  the  solution,  and  to  this  filtered  solution 
alum  is  added,  after  which  it  is  left  to  settle.  Another 
method  is  to  boil  the  ground  cochineal  in  a  solution  of 
carbonate  of  soda.  White  of  eggs  is  then  added  to  the 
solution  in  order  to  clarify  it,  and  after  this  the  solution  is 
precipitated  with  an  acid,  then  washed.  The  washed  pre- 
cipitate is  then  dried  at  30  degrees. 

FUSTIC. 

This  dyestuff  is  manufactured  from  the  dyer's  mulberry 
tree,  botanically  termed  mortis  tinctoria.  It  is  imported 
from  Cuba,  St.  Domingo,  and  Hayti,  that  from  Cuba  being 
the  best.  It  is  found  growing  spontaneously  in  the  Brazils. 
It  is  uncertain  when  it  was  first  introduced  as  a  dye  drug, 
but  mention  is  made  of  it  as  eaily  as  1692.  This  wood  is 
the  color  of  sulphur  with  orange-colored'  veins,  and  in 


THE  dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


13 


some  parts  a  reddish  color.  This  wood  has  been  long  em- 
ployed for  coloring  yellows  and  greens,  but  for  these  col- 
ors it  is  almost-superseded  by  flavine  or  quer-citron  bark, 
especially  on  cotton  yarns,  light  cotton  fabrics,  muslin,  etc. 

FLAVINE. 

This  is  a  coloring  matter  that  has  not  been  used  in  the 
woollen  dye-house  until  within  the  last  twenty  years.  It  is 
made  from  quer-citron  bark,  which  is  the  inner  bark  of  the 
black  oak,  called  quercites  nigra^  and  by  some  botanists, 
quercues  thtctoria.  The  manner  of  manufacturing  flavine 
is  first  to  grind  the  quer-citron  bark  into  a  fine  powder  ;  it 
is  then  called  quer-ci trine.  The  color  of  it  is  a  strong  and 
bright  yellow,  and  it  contains  tannic  acid  with  the  addition 
of  a  yellow  pigment.  This  powdered  bark  then  goes 
through  a  process  of  exhaustion  of  soda,  and  afterward  is 
precipitated  by  diluted  acids,  or  is  made  a  garancine  by 
precipitating  it  with  oil  vitriol.  It  is  then  dried  and  is 
ready  for  the  market  or  dyer's  use.  Flavine  is  the  chief 
yellow  dye  used  along' with  picric  acid  for  yellows,  at  the 
present  time,  that  is,  where  fastness  is  not  required.  Fla- 
vine is  now  used  in  dye-houses  in  place  of  quer-citron  bark, 
it  being  far  superior  to  the  bark,  both  in  the  amount  of 
coloring  matter  it  contains,  and  the  clearness  of  yellow  it 
imparts  to  the  wool,  one  pound  of  flavine  being  equal  to 
ten  pounds  of  the  bark,  and  to  thirty  230unds  of  fustic.  In 
using  flavine  it  has  to  be  made  into  a  paste  before  adding 
it  to  the  dye-tub  ;  and  after  it  is  thus  prepared  it  should  be 
used  soon,  as,  if  allowed  to  stand  over  night  it  will  pre- 


14 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


cipitate  and  deposit  a  brownish  yellow  mass  in  conse- 
quence of  its  not  being  all  completely  soluble  in  water. 
Even  if  boiled  in  distilled  water  and  allowed  to  stand  for 
twenty-four  hours  it  will  form  the  same  deposits. 

TUMERIC. 

This  coloring  subi-tance  is  manufactured  from  the  root  of 
the  crucuma  langa^  a  plant  that  grows  in  the  Indies  and 
on  the  island  of  Java.  The  root  is  found  in  egg-shaped 
tubers,  and  in  flattened  lumps,  and  is  of  a  dirty,  yellow 
color.  Its  pure  coloring  matter  is  called  curcumine.  It  is 
ground  into  a  powder  and  resembles  ginger.  The  solutions 
of  it  have  a  peculiar  smell  and  it  has  a  bitter  taste.  The 
color  given  b}^  it  is  very  fugitive,  there  being  no  proper 
mordant  for  it  that  will  make  it  a  permanent  color.  It  is 
used  for  test-paper  to  detect  alkalies  and  boracie  acid,  by 
which  the  paper  will  be  turned  to  a  red  brown. 

MADDER. 

This  plant  or  shrub  is  termed  I'ubia  tinctorium^  and  is 
cultivated  in  France,  Holland  and  the  Levant,  besides  in  the 
Southern,  Western  and  central  parts  of  Europe.  The  East 
Indies  also  furnish  a  large  amount  of  it.  The  coloring 
matter  of  this  shrub  rivals  indigo  as  a  vegetable  dye,  both 
in  beauty  and  brilliancy  of  colors  given  by  it,  as  well  as 
the  numerous  shades  that  can  be  dyed  from  it.  Madder 
should  be  kept  in  a  drv  place,  as  it  easily  absorbs  moisture, 
which  is  an  injury  to  it.  When  kept  dry  it  will  improve 
by  age.  and  its  age  is  ascertained  by  the  appearance  of  the 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


15 


head  of  the  cask.  If  it  is  two  years  old,  or  more,  it  will 
swell  so  as  to  bulge  the  head  of  the  cask  out. 

LOGWOOD. 

This  dyeing  material  was  first  discovered  by  the  Span- 
iards in  1662,  and  was  brought  to  Europe  shortly  after- 
ward. They  called  it  campechia,  but  it  is  known  to  botan- 
ists as  hcematoxylon  campeachianum .  Its  nature  and  the 
art  of  using  it  as  a  coloring  agent,  seem  to  have  been  but 
little  understood  in  Qiieen  Elizabeth's  time,  as  we  find  an 
-act  of  Parliament  prohibiting  and  abolishing  its  use  in  her 
domain,  imposing  a  penalty  of  imprisonment  and  the  pil- 
lory upon  any  dyer  who  should  use  it.  Upwards  of  one 
hundred  years  elapsed  before  the  virtues  of  this  dye-wood 
were  known  and  acknowledged  ;  and  at  the  present  time 
there  is  no  other  wood  so  universally  used,  or  so  useful  as 
logwood  ;  but  like  other  valuable  dyestufts  it  was  used  for 
a  long  time  before  its  true  coloring  principle  were  known. 

QUER-CITRON  BARK. 

This  drug  is  the  inside  bark  of  the  black  oak.  Il  is  a 
native  tree  of  North  America  and  termed  quercus  nigra. 
It  was  formerly  used  for  yellow,  orange,  and  other  colors 
wherein  the  yellow  is  predominant ;  but  it  is  now  super- 
seded by  flavine.  It  is  very  rich  in  coloring  matter,  and 
water  just  below  the  point  will  extract  the  color  more 
abundantly  than  if  boiled  ;  and  by  boiling  it  you  extract 
the  tannin  and  gallic  acid,  of  which  it  contains  a  large 
amount.    A  strong  solution  of  this  bark,  when  it  is  evapo- 


16 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


rated,  will  leave  a  resinous  substance  of  a  cinnamon  color, 
which  is  called  quercitrine. 

RED  SANDERS,  or  SAUNDEIIS. 

This  is  the  wood  of  the  pterocarpus  santalinus^  and  is  a 
native  of  India,  and  attains  its  greatest  perfection  in 
the  mountainous  districts,  especially  in  the  mountains  of 
Coromandel.  It  is  a  very  large  tree  w4th  alternate  branches 
and  has  petiolate,  ternate  leaves,  each  simple  leaf  being 
ovate,  blunt  and  somewhat  notched  at  the  apex.  They  are 
entire  veined,  smooth  on  the  upper  surface  'and  hoary 
underneath.  The  flowers  are  yellow  colored.  They  stand 
erect  and  are  somewhat  reflexed  at  the  sides,  being  toothed 
and  waved,  spreading  with  their  edges  apparently  toothed  ; 
and  the  carina  is  oblong,  short  and  somewhat  inflated. 
The  wood  comes  in  roundish  or  angular  billets.  For  the 
dyer's  use  it  is  ground  up  into  a  coarse  powder. 

YELLOW  CHROME. 

Chrome  iron  after  being  ground  and  sifted  is  mixed  with 
dried  nitrate  and  carbonate  of  potash.  This  mixture  is  put 
into  a  reverberating  furnace  and  a  powerful  heat  applied. 
It  is  stirred  occasionally,  and  when  perfectly  calcined  the 
mass  is  raked  out  and  dissolved  in  water.  It  is  then  boiled 
for  some  hours.  After  it  has  done  boiling  it  is  allowed  to 
settle  and  the  solution  is  decanted.  This  is  evaporated  and 
leaves  the  yellow  chromate  of  potash  crystalized. 


THE  DYER*S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


17 


BI-CHROMATE  OP  POTASH,  or  CHROME. 

Bi-chromate  is  obtained  from  the  yellow  salt  described 
before  by  the  addition  of  acetic  and  sulphuric  acid  to  a 
concentrated  solution  of  yellow  chromate.  The  last  named 
acid  is  not  as  well  adapted  for  the  purpose,  as  the  sulphate 
of  potash  formed  by  the  sulphuric  acid  is  very  difficult  to 
separate  from  the  chromate,  and  is  a  very  serious  adultera- 
tion ;  for  which  reason  sulphuric  acid  is  not  used  now  as 
much  as  formerly.  Acetic  acid  is  the  best,  and  as  a  gen- 
eral rule  employed. 

SUMAC. 

This  shrub  is  a  native  of  Syria,  and  called  by  botanists 
rhuscoriaria.  It  is  cultivated  in  Spain,  Portugal,  Italy 
and  Sicily.  It  is  known  in  the  market  as  the  Sicily,  Mal- 
aga and  Verona  vSumac.  The  first  nanried  is  considered 
the  best  kind.  Sumac  grows  to  the  height  of  from  six  to 
eight  feet.  When  this  shrub  is  used  for  dyeing  purposes 
it  is  cut  down  every  year,  then  dried  and  ground  into  pow- 
der. This  powder  is  of  a  yellow  or  bluisli  green  color 
when  received  by  the  dyer.  Sumac  has  superseded  nut- 
galls  in  cotton  dyeing,  as  cotton  dyers  at  the  present  time 
use  it  for  bottoming  their  reds,  browns,  blacks,  and  other 
shades. 

COPPERAS. 

This  substance  is  manufactured  in  various  ways  and  from 
various  substances.  The  original  method  was  lixiviation 
of  iron  pyrites,  or  iron  containing  minerals.    These  min- 


18 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


erals  are  collected  and  placed  in  layers  on  inclined  plat- 
forms ;  then  water  is  sprinkled  over  the  layers  from  time  to 
time.  As  this  water  drains  through  the  pyrites  they  be- 
come soluble,  and  part  of  their  substance  is  carried  off,  and 
is  slowly  oxidized  by  atmospheric  agency.  The  water, 
after  draining  through,  is  received  into  stone  cisterns  and 
taken  from  the  cisterns  to  the  evaporating  pans  where  it 
crystalizes.  There  is  in  the  market  a  number  of  brands 
of  copperas  such  as  the  English,  Vermont,  Keystone  and 
the  Pillar  Copperas,  which  is  the  best. 

SULPHURIC  ACID,  or  OIL  VITRIOL. 

The  production  of  sulphuric  acid  from  sulphur  and  nitre 
may  be  well  illustrated  by  means  ot  a  glass  globe  with 
a  stoppered  hole  at  its  side,  and  four  bent  glass  tubes  in- 
serted into  a  leaden  cap  at  its  upper  orifice.  The  first 
tubes  is  to  be  connected  with  a  heated  mattrass,  disengag- 
ing sulphurous  acid  from  copper  filings  and  sulphuric  acid, 
the  second  with  a  retort  disengaging  more  slowly  dentoxide 
of  azote,  (nitric  oxide)  from  copper  filings  and  nitric  acid, 
the  third  with  a  vessel  for  furnishing  steam  in  a  moderate 
current  towards  the  end  of  the  process,  when  no  water  has 
been  previously  added  into  the  balloon.  The  fourth  tube 
may  be  upright  and  terminate  in  a  small  funnel.  Through 
the  opening  in  the  side  of  the  globe  atmospherical  air  is  to 
be  admitted  from  time  to  time,  by  removing  the  stopper, 
after  which  the  residuary  lighter  azote  may  be  allowed  to 
escape  by  the  funnel  orifice. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


19 


NITRIC  ACID. 

Nitric  acid  is  made  as  follows  :  The  nitrate  of  potash  or 
soda  is  placed  in  an  iron  retort  and  heat  is  applied,  and 
sulphuric  acid  is  added  to  it  by  means  of  a  tunnel  connect- 
ed with  the  retort  and  the  acid  vapors  are  allowed  to  distill 
over  through  earthen  pipes  into  glazed  earthen  flasks  or 
jars,  which  are  called  receivers.  It  is  then  re-distilled  in 
glass  retorts  and  placed  in  a  sand-bath,  with  heat  applied 
under  the  sand-bath. 

OXALIC  ACID. 

This  acid  was  formerly  known  as  salts  of  sorrel,  and  was 
obtained  from  a  plant,  but  now  it  is  prepared  from  sugar 
and  starch,  by  the  action  of  nitric  acid  on  these  two  articles. 
To  obtain  this  acid  one  part  of  sugar,  two  parts  of  starch, 
four  parts  of  nitric  acid,  and  two  parts  of  water  are  put 
into  a  retort,  when  a  violent  action  takes  place.  The  nitric 
acid  decomposes  and  oxidates  the  sugar  and  starch  ;  red 
fumes  are  emitted  which  show  the  presence  of  nitrous  acid. 
The  solution  in  the  retort  is  then  evaporated  to  about  two- 
thirds  of  the  original  amount.  The  crystals  form  as  the 
solution  cools  ;  they  are  white.  These  crystals  are  again 
dissolved  and  evaporated  the  second  time. 

SULPHATE  OF  COPPER.   (Blue  Vitriol.) 

The  method  of  making  this  is  to  heat  sheets  of  copper 
in  a  reverberatory  furnace  to  the  boiling  point  of  sulphur 
(420  deg.  Fahr.),  there  is  then  a  quantity  of  the  sulphur 


20 


THE  DYER  S  PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


thrown  into  the  furnace,  the  openings  and  flues  of  the  fur- 
nace being  closed.  The  result  is  the  formation  of  sulphide 
of  copper.  This  sulphide  is  converted  by  a  low  heat  and 
the  action  of  the  oxygen  of  the  air  into  the  sulphate  of 
copper.  The  mass  is  then  placed  in  stone  troughs  and  oil 
vitriol  is  added  in  sufficient  quantity  to  saturate  the  oxide 
of  copper.  The  clear  solution  is  taken  out  and  set  aside 
for  crystalization.  There  are  three  or  four  other  ways  of 
making  sulphate  of  copper,  besides  the  above. 

MURIATIC,  or  HYDROCHLORIC  ACID. 

This  acid  is  extracted  from  sea-salt  by  the  action  of  sul- 
phuric acid  and  a  moderate  heat.  The  acid  gas  which 
exhales,  is  rapidly  condensed  b}'  water.  One  hundred 
cubic  inches  of  water  are  capable  of  absorbing  no  less  than 
48,000  cubic  inches  of  the  acid  gas,  whereby  the  liquid 
acquires  a  specific  gravity  of  12.109,  and  a  volume  of  142 
cubic  inches.  This  vast  condensation  is  accompanied  with 
a  great  production  of  heat,  whence  it  becomes  necessary  to 
apply  artificial  refrigeration,  especially  if  so  strong  an  acid 
as  the  above  is  to  be  prepared.  In  general,  the  muriatic 
acid  of  commerce  has  a  specific  gravity  varying  from  1.15 
to  1.20,  and  contains,  for  the  most  part,  considerably  less 
than  40  parts  by  weight  of  acid  gas  to  the  hundred. 

SODA-ASH. 

Soda-ash  is  prepared  as  follows :  First,  the  common  salt 
is  converted  into  sulphate  of  soda  by  throwing  600  lbs.  of 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


21 


the  salt  into  the  chamber  of  a  reverberatory  furnace  already 
well  heated,  and  running  down  upon  it  from  an  opening  in 
the  roof,  an  equal  weight  of  sulphuric  acid,  density  of 
1.600  (150  deg.  twaddle),  in  a  moderate  stream.  Hydro- 
chloric acid  (muriatic  acid)  is  disengaged  and  carried  up 
the  chimney,  and  the  conversion  of  salt  into  sulphate  of 
soda  is  completed  in  four  hours.  Second,  the  sulphate 
thus  prepared  is  reduced  to  powder,  and  mixed  with  an 
equal  weight  of  ground  chalk,  and  half  its  weight  of  coal 
ground  and  sifted.  This  mixture  is  introduced  into  a  very 
hot  reverberatory  furnace,  about  200  weight  at  a  time.  It 
is  frequently  stirred  until  it  is  uniformly  heated.  In  about 
an  hour  it  fuses  ;  it  is  then  well  stirred  for  about  five  min- 
utes and  drawn  out  with  a  rake  into  a  cast-iron  trough,  in 
which  it  is  allowed  to  cool  and  solidify. 

MURIATE  OF  TIN. 

To  make  this  solution  take  two  parts  by  weight  of  muri- 
atic acid  and  one  part  of  tin.  Some  dyers  give  as  much 
tin  as  the  acid  will  eat,  let  it  be  more  or  less.  After  the  tin 
is  all  dissolved  and  has  a  few  days  age,  it  will  have  an 
agreeable  and  fragrant  smell  and  a  sparkling,  glistening 
appearance.  This  is  caused  by  a  portion  of  the  solution 
having  crystalized,  and  the  crystals  are  floating  in  the 
solution. 


22 


THE   dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


SCOURING. 


I  wish  to  give  here  a  few  remarks  on  wool  scouring,  for 
the  benefit  ot  young  dyers,  and  to  those  interested  in  the 
mysterious  art  of  dyeing. 

All  the  works  published  on  dyeing,  that  I  have  seen, 
have  all  omitted  an  important  subject  —  that  on  wool  scour- 
ing, for  it  is  a  very  important  point  for  a  dyer  to  have  his 
wool  well  scoured  and  cleansed  before  coloring,  in  order 
to  obtain  bright  and  even  colors.  For  should  there  be  any 
animal  grease  or  gum  left  in  the  wool,  and  the  scour  not 
thoroughly  rinsed  from  it,  some  shades  on  such  wool  will 
take  more  drugs  by  one-fifth  to  get  the  required  shade  in 
resisting  the  dirt  in  it,  and  you  will  not  obtain  that  bril- 
liancy as  from  clean  wool,  as  it  will  lose  considerable  in 
fulling  and  will  also  give  trouble  by  gumming  up  the  cards. 
From  my  long  experience  of  thirty  years  on  coloring  all 
grades  of  wool  and  seeing  to  the  scouring  of  it,  I  will  give 
here  a  few  methods  on  scouring  the  difierent  grades. 

Beginning  with  American  fleece,  of  which  the  fine  quali- 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE, 


23 


ties  of  this  wool  contain  a  great  deal  of  grease.  Boil  up 
in  a  barrel  of  water  30  lbs.  soda-ash,  10  lbs.  rock  salt. 
When  well  dissolved,  add  to  a  scour-tub  holding  100  gal- 
lons, 5  or  6  pails  of  the  above  scour,  according  to  the 
amount  of  grease  in  the  wool  and  heat  the  scour-tub  to  130 
or  135  deg.  F.,  no  hotter,  and  do  not  crowd  the  scour-tub. 
Handle  wool  in  the  tub  well,  for  5  or  10  minutes,  then 
rinse  in  clean  water.  After  scouring  200  pounds  or  so, 
recruit  up  with  1  pail  of  scour;  then  this  should  run  oft' 
another  100  pounds  of  wool,  and  when  your  tub  has  low- 
ered one-half,  fill  it  up  again  with  water,  and  add  2  or  3 
pails  more  of  the  scour,  and  then  proceed  as  before. 

The  next  will  be  on  pulled  wool  scouring,  which  re- 
quires a  difterent  treatment  on  account  of  the  process  it 
has  been  through  previously,  in  the  lime  vats,  because 
when  once  the  carbon  in  lime  is  discharged,  it  is  very  diffi- 
cult to  scour  the  wool  clean  after  it,  for  light  colors.  Also, 
there  is  a  wide  difference  in  the  qualities  of  pulled  wool. 
Of  course  the  fine  grade  is  the  most  difficult,  as  this  re- 
quires a  stronger  scour  than  fleece  or  any  other  wool. 

Boil  up  in  a  barrel  of  water  30  lbs.  soda-ash,  15  lbs.  sal- 
soda,  and  1  lb.  carbonate  of  ammonia  ;  also  10  lbs.  salt. 
Add  to  your  scour-tub  from  5  to  6  pails  of  this  scour,  and 
manipulate  the  same  as  for  fleece  wool. 

Next  will  be  on  California  wool.  As  a  general  thing 
this  grade  of  wool  does  not  need  a  very  strong  scour,  but 
requires  a  good  rinsing  after  scouring,  on  account  of  the 
amount  of  sand  in  the  wool.  To  scour  this  wool  clean  use 
about  half  the  quantity  of  scour  as  you  would  for  fleece 


24 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


wool,  and  manipulate  exactly  the  same.  After  scouring 
about  1,000  pounds  of  California  wool,  let  oft'  and  clean 
out  your  scouring  tub,  because  after  that  amocint  has  been 
scoured,  the  scour  liquor  becomes  thick,  and  does  not  clean 
the  wool  as  well. 

The  scouring  of  Texas  wool  is  manipulated  exactly  the 
same  way  as  for  fleece  wool,  but  does  not  require  quite  so 
much  alkali  in  discharging  the  grease.  Should  you  have 
the  scour-tub,  for  any  grade  of  wool,  hotter  than  130  or 
135  deg.  F.,  the  grease  in  the  wool  will  begin  to  set  and 
change  in  color  to  a  yellowish  appearance,  or  if  an  over- 
supply  of  alkali  is  given  to  the  scour  it  will  also  set  the 
grease.  Also  if  the  wool  lays  longer  in  the  scour  than  the 
limited  time  it  will  also  change  the  wool.  When  fleece 
wool,  or  any  wool,  is  well  scoured  and  cleansed,  you  can 
tell  when  the  grease  is  thoroughly  discharged  by  taking  up 
a  handful  of  it,  and  holding  it  tight  in  the  hand,  then  sud- 
denly opening  it,  and  if  it  is  well  scoured  and  cleansed  it 
will  spring  apart  quickly.  Always  be  sure  and  have  the 
wool  well  rinsed  after  scouring,  so  as  to  obtain  bright  and 
even  colors. 

The  scour  for  fleece  wool,  when  in  good  working  order, 
should  be  run  three  or  four  days  without  letting  oft',  by 
skimming  the  grease  ofl'  the  top  every  morning  before 
starting.  In  that  case  you  would  be  using  much  less, 
scouring  liquor  and  would  have  less  trouble  in  getting  a 
new  liquor  balanced  right.  If  these  methods  which  I  give 
here  are  adhered  to,  and  strict  attention  paid  to  it,  there 
will  be  no  trouble  in  having  clean  wool.    On  some  streams 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


25 


water  is  pregnated  with  iron  and  it  is  very  difficult  to  scour 
with  it,  in  the  summer  time  in  particular  ;  but  to  obviate  it 
use  some  aqua  ammonia  with  the  scour,  which  relieves  the 
alkali  in  discharging  the  grease. 


26 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Extracting  Cotton  from  Wool. 


This  is  a  process  which  very  few  thoroughly  understand, 
and  one  which  should  not  be  omitted  in  a  work  of  this 
kind,  for  the  benefit  of  dyers  and  manufacturers  in  this  line 
of  business.- 

The  extracting  of  cotton  from  wool  with  oil  vitriol,  is  as 
follows:  Have  the  acid-tub  to  test  18  deg.  by  No.  1  Twad- 
dle, for  Delaines,  with  60  per  cent  cotton.  Enter  the  stock, 
soak  1  hour,  keeping  under  the  liquor  all  the  time ;  lift  and 
drain,  then  whiz  (about  one-half  the  liquor  out),  then  dry. 

Have  the  acid-tub  to  test  15  deg.  by  No.  1  Twaddle,  for 
Merino  Seams  or  Meiino,  with  30  to  40  per  cent  cotton. 
Enter  the  stock,  soak  40  minutes  ;  lift  and  drain.  (Keep 
tub  at  the  above  test  for  the  standard),  and  proceed  as 
above.  Should  the  stock  be  very  black  after  running  800 
pounds,  the  tub  will  test  on  the  Twaddle  from  4  to  6  deg., 
but  will  be  no  stronger  in  acid,  so  better  allow  for  it. 

The  principal  point  is  in  drying.  Have  the  stock  dried 
quick  and  thoroughly,  as  it  is  one-half  the  destruction  of 
cotton. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


27 


REMARKS 


ON  RECEIPTS  FOR  WOOL  DYEING. 

The  number  of  pounds  given  in  each  receipt  is  for  clean 
wool,  (that  is,  wool  that  is  scoured).  The  wool,  in  all 
cases,  should  be  w^ell  poled  before  tho  steam  is  turned  on, 
and  during  the  time  it  is  boiling,  it  is  a  very  good  plan  to 
shift  the  position  of  it  in  the  tub,  by  using  the  pole  once  or 
more  during  the  ebullition. 

The  dye-w^oods  must  be  boiled  one  and  a  half  hours  be- 
fore entering  the  wool,  and  the  same  time  for  the  wool 
unless  otherwise  stated  in  receipt.  All  the  ground  woods 
should  be  thrown  into  the  tub  loose,  except  camwood, 
Sanders  and  barwood,  if  in  large  quantities,  and  must  be 
sprinkled  upon  the  wool  before  it  is  thrown  into  the  tub. 
When  coloring  yellow,  drab  and  other  light  shades,  enter 
the  wool  cool,  say  at  130  or  140  deg.,  and  be  very  partic- 
ular to  have  the  tub  thoroughly  cleaned  and  everything 
connected  with  the  dyeing  of  them  perfectly  clean.  After 
preparing  the  colors  always  shake  the  wool  up  to  the  tub 
before  entering,  that  is,  tease  the  big  lumps  that  may  hap- 
pen to  be  in  it. 


28 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Receipts  for  Wool. 


No.  1.— Flesh  Color. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 

5  oz.  Camwood, 

5  Madder, 

5       Ground  Logwood. 
Enter  the  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  1-2  hours,  or  to 
.shade. 

No.  2.— Golden  Brown. 

78  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
2  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

1  gill  Oil  Vitriol, 

2  lbs.  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
16  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 
7  Madder, 
5  Camwood, 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


29 


4  o/^  Ground  Logwood. 
Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  l:>oil  11-2  hours,  then  lay  2 
hours  and  draw  off. 

No.  3.— Cinnamon  Brown. 

350  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

1  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

2  lbs.  Alum. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
150  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
32  Madder, 
13  Camwood. 
Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1   hour  ;  lay  in  dye  1 
hour  and  draw  off. 

No.  4.— Seal  Brown. 

250  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
7  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  Tartar, 

6         Oil  Vitriol. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours. 

Finish  with 
130  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 

9         Chip  Hypernic, 
55  Camwood, 
30  Madder, 


30 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


8  lbs.  Ground  Logwood. 
Enter  the  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;   lay  2 
hours  ;  draw  off. 

Wo.  5.— Brown. 

350  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
4  lbs.  Chrome, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Argols, 

1  1-2  Alum. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

120  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 

4  1-2  lbs.  Chip  Logwood, 
Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
12  lbs.  Camwood, 
18  Madder, 
Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  6.— Olive. 

300  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

3  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

2  lbs.  Argols, 
1         Alu  m . 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
120  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 

6         Ground  Logwood. 


THE  DYER  S  PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


31 


Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours;  take  out;  add 
6  lbs.  Camwood. 
15  Madder. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours ;   lay  1  hour ;  draw  off. 

No.  7.— Brown  Olive. 

270  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

4  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  1-2        Oil  Vitriol, 

1  1-2  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours. 

Finish  with 

40  lbs.  Chip  Fustic. 

Boil  bags  11-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 

5  1-2  lbs.  Camwood, 

11-2        Ground  Logwood. 
Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  1-2  hours ;  lay  1  hour  ; 
draw  off  and  it  will  redden  up  to  shade. 

No.  8.— Mulberry. 

300  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 

Prepare  with 

3  lbs.  6  oz.  Chrome, 

2  Alum, 
3-4  lb.  Argols, 

1  1-2  Pint  Muriate  Tin. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours;  lay  2  hours. 

Finish  with 


32 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


84  lbs.  Chip  Hypernic, 
12        Chip  Logwood. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours;  take  out;  add 
18  lbs.  Camwood, 

7  1-2  lbs.  Cudbear. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  9.— Scarlet. 

40  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
4  Cochineal, 

2  White  Argols, 

4  1-2  lbs.  Muriate  Tin, 
10  oz.  Flavine. 
Boil  11-4  hours ;  lay  in  liquor  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  10.— Dark  Green  Olive. 

270  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
7  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
1  Qiiart  Oil  Vitriol, 

3  lbs.  Tartar. 

Boil  1  1-2  hours;  lay  5  hours. 
Finish  with 
125  lbs.  Chip  Fustic. 
22        Chip  Logwood. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours ;  take  out ;  add 
17  lbs.  Camwood, 
38  lbs.  Madder. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours;  lay  2  hours;  draw 


THE  DYERS   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


No.  11.— Light  Olive. 

104  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

2  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  1-2  Alum, 

2  lbs.  "Muriate  Tin, 
1  1-4  lbs.  Tartar. 
Finish  with 

40  lbs.  Chip  Fustic. 
Boil  bags  11-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 

3  lbs.  Madder. 

Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  hour. 

No.  12.— Rose. 

300  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 

1  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

2  1-4  Madder, 
2  1-4  Cudbear, 
6  oz.  Copperas, 

1  1-4  lbs.  Argols. 

Boil  1  1-2  hours,  or  to  shade  ;  draw  off. 


No.  13.— Drab. 

350  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
1  lb.  10  oz.  Logwood, 
3  1-4  lbs.  Madder, 
10  oz.  Cudbear, 


34 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


7  oz.  Alum, 
9  Copperas, 
Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  14.— Slate  Drab. 

300  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
3  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 
9  oz.  Madder, 

1-4  lb.  Nutgalls, 
7  oz.  Ground  Fustic. 
Boil  wool  11-2  hours,  then 
Sadden  with 
7  oz.  Alum, 
7  Copperas. 
Boil  1-2  hour ;  draw  off. 

No.  15.— Dark  Flesh. 

50  lbs  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
3  1-2  oz.  Chrome, 
1  oz.  Argols, 

1  1-2  oz.  Muriate  Tin. 
Boil  11-2  hours;  then 
Finish  with 

5  oz.  Camwood, 

2  Ground  Fustic, 
1  Madder. 

Boil  1  hour  or  to  shade  ;  draw  off. 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


No.  16.— Blue  Drab. 

300  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
1  3-4  lbs.  Chrome, 
1  3-4  Argols, 
3  lbs.  Alum  ;  then 
Finish  with 

3  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 

11-2  Cudbear. 

Boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 


No.  17.- Silver  Drab. 

180  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
3  3-4  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 
9  oz.  Madder, 
11-4  lbs.  Camwood, 

1-2  Fustic, 
9  oz.  Copperas, 
9  Argols. 
Boil  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 


No.  18.— Light  Silver  Drab. 

225  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 

2  3-4  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 
1  1-2  Nutgalls, 

1  oz.  Cudbear, 

3  Copperas. 


"86  THE  dyer's  practical  guide. 

Sadden  with 

3  oz.  Copperas. 

Boil  1  hour  ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  19.— Blue  Slate. 

100  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
3  lbs.  Chrome, 
3  Alum, 

2  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

3  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol, 

10        Extract  of  Indigo^ 
Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  20.— Drab. 

180  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 

2         Ground  Logwood, 
3-4  lb.  Ground  Fustic, 

1  lb.  Camwood. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours. 

Sadden  with 

9  oz.  Copperas, 

9  Argols. 

Boil  wool  1-2  hour  longer  ;  draw  oft'. 


No.  21.— Red  Flesh  Color. 

50  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 

3  1-2  oz.  Ground  Logwood, 
2  1-2  Alum, 

2  1-2  Tartar, 

3  oz.  Cudbear, 

5  Ground  Fustic. 

Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  hour;  draw  off. 

No.  22.— Blue  Drab. 

185  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

1  lb.  Chrome, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Alum, 

4  oz.  Oxalic  Acid  ;  then 
Finish  with 

2  lbs.  6  oz.  Ground  Logwood, 
1  1-2  lb.  Cudbear. 
Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  i  hour  ;  draw  off. 

No.  23.— Drab. 

300  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
1  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 
1  1-2  Madder, 
1  1-2  Camwood. 
Boil  1  hour  ;  then 
Sadden  with 

6  oz.  C(»pperas, 
6  Argols. 

Boil  1-2  hour  ;  draw  off. 


38 


THE  DYER  S  PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


No.  24.— Brown. 

300  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
4  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
2  lbs.  Alum, 

1  Oil  Vitriol. 
Boil  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

10  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

2  3-4  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 
10  lbs.  Madder, 

21  Camwood. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  25.— Drab. 

180  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
1  1-4  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 
1  1-4  Nutgalls, 
1  1-2        Ground  Fustic, 
1  3-4        Red  Sanders. 
Boil  wool  1  1-4  hours  ;  then 
Sadden  with 
7  oz.  Copperas, 

3  Alum. 

Boil  1-2  hour  ;  draw  off. 

No.  26.— Yellow  Orange. 

100  lbs.  coarse  Texas  wool ; 
Prepare  with 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


39 


15  lbs.  Alum, 
5  Tartar. 
Boil  1  1-2  hours;  then 
Finish  with 
7  lbs.  Flavine, 
4  Cochineal, 
9  pints  Muriate  Tin. 
Boil  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 

No.  27.— Aniline  Red. 

100  lbs.  coarse  Texas  wool : 

1  1-2  lbs.  Aniline  Red,  4  B.     (Blue  shade), 

3  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  wool  at  130  deg.  ;  then  heat  up  to  a  boil,  and  boil 
11-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  28.— Dark  Mouse. 

350  lbs.  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 

4  lbs.  Chrome, 

2  Tartar. 

Boil  11-2  hours  ;  then 
Finish  with 

7  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 

7        Ground  Fustic, 

7  1-2  lbs.  Cudbear, 

2  lbs.  Madder. 

Boil  1  1-2  hours ;  draw  off. 


40 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


No.  29.— Light  Olive. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 

Prepare  with 

3  1-4  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  1-2  Alum, 

1  lb.  Tartar.  • 

Boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  then 

Finish  with 
56  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
12  3-4  lbs.  Chip  Hypernic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours;  take  out;  add 
17  lbs.  Madder, 

1  lb.  2  oz.  Ground  Logwood. 

Boil  1  hour ;  draw  off. 

No.  3d.— Red  Brown. 

275  lbs.  coarse  Texas  wool  : 

Prepare  with 

8  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  1-2        Oil  Vitriol, 

Boil  11-2  hours  ;  then 

Finish  with 
60  lbs.  Chip  Hypernic, 
70        Chip  Fustic. 

Boil  bags  11-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
20  lbs.  Camwood, 
20  Madder, 

5        Ground  Logwood. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


41 


Sadden  with 
3  lbs.  Copperas, 
1         Blue  Vitriol. 
Boil  1-2  hour;  draw  oft^ 

No.  31.— Scarlet. 

100  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  w^ith 
10  lbs.  Alum, 
5  Tartar, 

1  pint  Muriate  Tin, 

2  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid. 

Boil  1  hour  ;  lay  24  hours. 
Finish  with 
45  lbs.  Madder, 

5  Cochineal. 

Boil  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  32.— Drab. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 

1  Nutgalls, 

2  Madder, 

3  Ground  Fustic, 

6  oz.  Camwood.  / 
Boil  wool  1  hour. 

Sadden  with 

1  oz.  Copperas, 

3  1-2  oz.  Tartar. 

Boil  1-2  hour  longer  ;  draw  off. 


42 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


No.  33.— Light  Prussian  Blue. 

100  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

4  1-2  lbs.  Red  Prussiate  of  Potash. 

5  1-2         Oil  Vitriol, 

Enter  wool  at  100  deg.  ;  then  bring  slowly  to  a  boil. 
Take  up  the  wool  and  add  to  the  dye 

6  lbs.  Chip  Logwood,  which    has   been  previously 

boiled  in  a  barrel  for  1  hour, 
2  lbs.  Muriate  Tin,  or  14  oz.  Tin  Crystals. 
Enter  the  wool  at  150  deg.  again,  for  1-4  of  hour  ;  then 
bring  to  a  boil  and  boil  to  shade.    Draw  ofl^  and  wash  well. 

No.  34.— Dark  Prussian  Blue. 

100  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

6  1-2  lbs.  Red  Prussiate  of  Potash, 
8  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  wool  at  100  deg.,  and  then  bring  slowly  to  a  boil. 
Take  up  the  wool  and  add  to  the  dye, 

8  lbs.  Chip  Logwood,  which  has  previously  boiled  in 

a  barrel  for  1  hour. 
2  lbs.  Muriate  of  Tin,  or  14  oz.  Tin  Crystals. 
Enter  the  wool  at  150  deg.  again,  for  1-4  hour;  then 
bring  to  a  boil  and  boil  to  shade.    Draw  off  and  wash  well. 

No.  35.- Drab. 

100  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


43 


1  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
1  1-2  Tartar, 
1  lb.  Alum. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours. 

Finish  with 

3  lbs.  Madder, 

3        Ground  Fustic, 

1  1-2  lbs.  Camwood. 

Enter  the  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours. 

Sadden  with 

6  oz.  Copperas. 

Boil  wool  1-2  hour  longer;  draw  oft'. 

No.  36.-Peacoek  Blue. 

200  lbs.  coarse  Texas  wool : 

7  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    6  B., 
3  lbs.  Salsoda. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours. 
Sour  with 
5  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  wool  and  lay  1-2  hour  at  130  deg.  ;   then  draw  oft. 

No.  37.- Light  Blue. 

60  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 

1-2  Gill  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  wool  at  160  deg.  and  lay  1-2  hour. 
Finish  with 


44 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


6  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.  BBB, 

1  lb.  Alum. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours. 
Sadden  with 
8  lbs.  Alum. 

Boil  wool  1-2  hour  longer  and  draw  off. 

No.  38.-- Dark  Smoke. 

270  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
4  lbs.  Chrome, 

2  Alum, 

2  1-4  lbs.  Tartar. 

Enter  and  boil  1  1-2  hours. 

Finish  with 
46  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
20        Chip  Logwood, 
32         Chip  Hypernic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
11  lbs.  Camwood. 

Enter  the  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours. 

Sadden  with 

1  1-2  lbs.  Copperas. 

Boil  wool  1-2  hour  longer  and  draw  oft. 

No.  39."  Dark  Green  Olive. 

50  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


1  lb.  Chrome, 

1  Alum, 

7  oz.  Muriate  Tin. 
Boil  1-2  hour. 
Finish  with 

8  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

8        Ground  Logwood, 

2  Ground  Hypernic, 
1  Camwood. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  40."  Peacock  Green. 

60  lbs.  clean  California  wool :  ^ 
Prepare  with 

1-2  gill  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  wool  at  160  deg.  1-2  hour  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 

6  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B., 
1  lb.  Alum. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  11-4  hours. 
Sadden  with 
8  lbs.  Alum, 
17        Ground  Fustic, 
Boil  wool  1-2  hour  longer  ;  draw  off. 

No.  41.-- Sage. 

190  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
1  lb.  Chrome, 


46 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


10  oz.  Alum, 

8  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
1  1-4  lbs.  Madder, 
1  1-2        Ground  Logwood, 
14  oz.  Ground  Fustic, 
Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  42. -Flesh  Color. 

50  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

3  oz.  Chrome, 

4  Alum, 

1-2  oz.  Muriate  Tin. 
Boil  wool  1  hour. 
Finish  with 
4  oz.  Madder, 

4  Ground  Fustic, 

9  Camwood. 

Enter  the  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours ;  draw^ 

No.  43. "Navy  Blue. 

300  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
16  lbs.  Alum, 

5  1-2  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid. 
Boil  wool  11-2  hours. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


47 


Finish  with 
100  lbs.  Chip  Logwood. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 

0  lbs.  Aqua  Ammonia,  F  F  F. 

Enter  wool  at  130  deg.  ;  the.h  heat  up  slowly  to  a  boil, 
and  boil  1  1-2  hours;  lay  6  hgurs  ;  diaw  off. 

No.  44.— B^ue  Green. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wojol : 
Prepare  with  ' 
9  lbs.  Clirome, 

1  Tin  Crystals,  "X^ 

12  Alum, 

12*       Oil  Vitriol. 

Boil  1  1-2  hours;  lay  G  hours;  draw  oti". 

Finish  with 
82  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 

13  Ground  Fustic, 

6         Ground  Logwood, 
13  Salt. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours;    lay  G  homs  ;  draw  off. 

No.  45. —  Sage. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 

2  lbs.  Chrome, 

2  3-4  lbs.  Alum, 

2  lbs.  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 


4-8 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Finish  with 

4  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 

o  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

8  lbs.  Madder, 
11  oz.  Nutgalls, 
18  Cudbear. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours;  draw  off. 


No.  46.— Cinnamon  Brown. 

100  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Frep^ive  with 
8  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
8  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol, 
1  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours;  lay  (i  hours. 
Finish  with 
70  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 

7  1-2  lbs.  Chip  Hypernic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours;  take  out;  add 

8  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 
28  lbs.  Madder. 

16  Camwood. 
Enter  the  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours. 
Sadden  with 
1  lb.  Copperas. 

Boil  wool  1-2  hour  longer  and  draw  ofl. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


49 


No.  47.— Drab. 


200  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
2  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
11-2.  Tartar. 
Boil  wool  11-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

7  1-4  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 
2  lbs.  Camwood. 
1  1-2  lbs.  Nutgalls, 
4  1-4,  lbs.  Madder. 
Enter  wool  at  150  de<^.  and  boil  1  1-2  hours;  draw  off. 


300  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
3  3-4  lb.  Chrome, 
2  lbs.  i\rgols, 
o  lbs.  Alum. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
25  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 
f)         Ground  Logwood, 
8  Madder, 
12  Camwood. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hoin's ;  lay  2  hours;  draw  off. 


No.  48.— Brown. 


50 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


No.  49.— Aniline  Blue. 


200  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
5  lbs.  Chrome, 
2  Tartar. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

2  lbs.  Methyline  Blue.    5  O's. 

Enter  wool  at  130  deg.  and  boil  1  1-4  hours. 


200  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 

First  rinse  the  wool  in  a  tub  of  water  at  160  deg.,  con- 
taining 2  quarts  Oil  Vitriol,  for  1-2  hour;  draw  off. 


5  lbs.  Chrome, 
13  1-2  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol, 

2  lbs.  Tin  Crystals, 
12  Alum. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  6  hours. 

Finish  with 
50  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 

4         Grcnmd  Fustic, 


Enter  wool  at  100  deg.  and  boil  slowly  for  2  hours;  lay 
6  hours  ;  draw  off. 


No.  50.— Blue  Green. 


Prepare  with 


12 
4 


Salt, 
Alum. 


THE  DYER  S   PKACTICAE  GUIDE. 


51 


No.  51.— Blue  Sage. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
1  lb.  Chrome, 
12  oz.  Alum, 
8  Tartar. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

1  8-4  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

2  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 
1  1-2  lbs.  Madder. 

Enter  the  wool  and  l)oil  1  1-2  hour^  ;  draw  oii\ 

No.  52.—  Biiff. 

150  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
1  1-4  lbs.  Chrome, 
1  lb.  Tin  Crystals, 

1-2  lb.  Tartar. 
Boil  wool  1  1-4  hours;  lay  1  hour. 
Finish  with 
1  8-4  lbs.  Madder, 
1  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Fustic. 
Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  1-4  hours;  lay  1  hour; 
draw  off. 

No.  53.--  Green  Olive. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 


52 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


2  1-2  lbs.  Chrome. 
2  1-2  Alum, 

2  1-2  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours;  then 

Finish  with 
25  lbs.  Ground  Fustic. 
11  Madder, 

5         Ground  Logwood. 

Boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  oti'. 

No.  54.— Dark  Brown. 

250  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 

7  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  Tartar, 

8  Oil  Vitriol.  • 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours  ;   lay  2  hours. 
Finish  with 
110  lbs.  Chip  Fustic. 
30         Chip  Hypernic, 
13         Chip  Logwood. 
Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
30  lbs.  Madder. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Sadden  with 
2  lbs.  Copperas. 
1  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 
Boil  wool  1-2  hour  longer;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  oft'  and 
smoor  6  hours. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 

No.  55.— Light  Brown. 

168  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 

3  lbs.  Chrome, 

1  1-2  lbs.  Half-rehned  Tartar, 

1  1-2  Alum, 

1  Gill  Oil  Vitriol. 

Boil  1  1-2  hours;  then 

Finish  with 

22  lbs.  Chip  Fustic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours;  take  out;  add 

4  lbs.  Camwood. 
9  Madder. 

10  oz.  Ground  Logwood. 
Boil  1  1-2  hours;  lay  2  hoiu's  ;  draw  oFl*. 

No.  56.— Lavender. 

185  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

1  lb.  Chrome, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Alum, 

4  oz.  Oxalic  Acid  ;  then 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

1  1-2  lbs.  Cudbear, 

2  1-2        Ground  Logwood. 

Enter  wool  at  130  deg.  and  boil  i  hour  ;  draw 


54 


TH£   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


No.  57.— Brown. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 

5  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  1-2  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol, 
1  lb.  Tartar. 

Boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours. 
Finish  with 
40  Mbs.  Chip  Fustic, 

4  Chip  Hypernic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours;  take  out;  add 
30  lbs.  Madder, 
28  Camw^ood. 
F^nter  wool  and  boil  1  i-2  hours;  lay  6  hours;  draw  off. 

No.  58.- Blue. 

75  lbs  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
1  lb.  Chrome, 
3  lbs.  x\lum  ; 

6  oz.  Oxalic  Acid. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hoin  s. 
Finish  with 

6  1-2  lbs.  Extract  of  Indigo, 

1-2  lb.  Oil  Vitriol, 
3  lbs.  Ground  Logwood. 
Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  hour;  draw  off. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


No.  59.— Mustard. 

oi)  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

7  oz.  Chrome, 
4  Tartar, 

1  lb.  Alum. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

4  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

o  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 

2  oz.  Madder. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours;  draw  off. 

No.  60.— Tan  Drab. 

230  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 

8  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
o  lbs.  Argols, 

2  8-4  lbs.  Muriate  Tin. 

Boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  then 

Finish  with 

8  lbs.  Madder, 

5  Ground  Fustic, 

2  oz.  Ground  Logwood. 
Boil  1-2  hour  ;  draw  off. 

No.  61.— Olive. 

270  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
■  Prepare  with 


56 


THE   dyer's   PRACTICAE  GUIDE. 


5  lbs.  Chrome, 

4  Oil  Vitriol, 

1  1-2  lbs.  Half-refined  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours;  lay  2  hours; 

Finish  with 
50  lbs.  Chip  Fustic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
20  lbs.  Madder, 

6  Camwood, 

2  Ground  Logwood, 
Boil  wool  1-2  hour;  draw  oW. 

No.  62.— iDrab. 

250  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
9  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Fustic. 

1  1-2  Nutgalls, 

2  lbs.  Camwood, 

5  Madder. 

Enter  wool  at  165  deg.  and  boil  1  1-4  hours. 

Sadden  with 

8  1-2  oz.  Copperas, 

8  1-2       Half-refined  Tartar. 

Boil  20  minutes  longer  ;  draw  off. 

No.  63.— Drab. 

270  lbs.  clean  California  wool: 
Prepare  with 
2  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 

1  J -4  lbs.  Tartar, 
8  oz.  Muriate  Tin. 

Boil  wool  11-4  hours.  , 
Finish  with 
3  3-4  lbs.  Madder. 
3  1-2        Ground  Fustic, 
1  1-4  Nutgalls, 

1  1-2  Camwood. 
Enter  wool  at  160  deg.  and  boil  1  1-4  hours 
Sadden  with 

10  oz.  C('pperas. 
Boil  1-2  hour  longer  :  draw  ofY. 

No.  64.— Light  Flesh. 

50  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 

2  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
1  oz.  Tin  Crystals. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

3  oz.  Camwood, 
1  Madder, 

1        Ground  Fustic. 
Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  hour  ;  draw 

No.  65.— Drab. 

350  lbs.  clean  American  fleece  wool : 

4  1-2  lbs.  Groiuid  Fustic, 
3  1-2  Madder. 


58 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  hour. 
Sadden  with  , 

2  lbs.  i-Vrgols, 
1-2  lb.  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  1-2  hour  longer  ;  draw  off. 

No.  66.— Prab. 

150  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 

3  1-2  lbs.  Madder, 

1  1-4  Nutgalls, 

11-4  Camwood. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours. 

Sadden  with 
10  oz.  Copperas, 
10  Tartar. 

Boil  1-2  hour  longer  ;    draw  off. 

No.  67.- Flesh  Color. 

50  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
1  1-4  oz.  Chrome, 

1  oz.  Tartar, 

11-2  oz.  Muriate  Tin. 
Boil  wool  11-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
5  oz.  Camwood, 

2  Ground  Fustic, 


THE  dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 

1  oz.  Madder. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours;  draw  off. 

No.  68.- Corn  Color. 

50  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
4  oz.  Chrome, 

2  Tartar, 
1  Alum, 

1  Muriate  Tin. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours.  » 
Finish  with 

2  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 
2  oz.  Madder. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  69.- Sage  Drab. 

229  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
1  lb.  Chrome, 
10  oz.  Alum, 
8  Tartar. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
1  lb.  Madder, 

1  1-.2  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 

14  oz.  Ground  Fustic. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


No.  70.— Blue  Stain. 

70  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
First  rinse  the  wool  in  a  tub  of  water,  at  160  (leg.,  for 
1-2  hour,  with 

1-2  gill  Oil  Vitriol  ;  draw  ot^'. 
Finish  with 

1  3-4  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B., 
1-2  lb.  Alum. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  1  hour. 
Sadden  with 

3  lbs.  Alum. 

Boil  1-4  hour  longer  ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  71.—  Scarlet. 

40  lbs.  clean  American  fleece  wool  : 

4  lbs.  Cochineal, 

2  Argols, 

5  Muriate  Tin, 
10  oz.  Flavine, 

8       Oxalic  Acid. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours ;  lay  2  hours  ;   draw  off. 

No.  72.— Munjeet  Red. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 
60  Ib^.  Alum, 
8  Tartar, 
5        Tin  Crystals. 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


61 


Kilter  wool  and  boil  2  hours  ;   lay  6  hours  ;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 
22o  lbs.  Madder, 
150  :Munjeet, 

3         Tin  Crystals, 

2  Tartar, 

1  Bushel  of  Beans. 

Enter  the  wool  at  150  deg.  ;  boil  2  hours;  lay  6  hours; 
draw  off. 

The  above  Red  will  stand  all  the  milling  that  can  be 
given  to  it. 

No.  73.— Drab. 

250  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 

7  Ground  Fustic, 

2  Camwood, 
5  Madder, 

1  1-2  lbs.  Nutgalls. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours. 

Sadden  with 

8  oz.  Copperas, 
8  Tartar. 

Boil  1-2  hour  longer;  lay  6  hours;  draw  off. 

No.  74.— Light  Blue  Green. 

60  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
First  rinse  in  a  tub  of  water  at  160  deg.,  for  1-2  hour, 
with  1-2  gill  of  Oil  Vitriol.    Draw  off. 


62 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


Finish  with 

2  1-4  oz.  Nicholson  Bhie.    3  B. 
1-2  lb.  Alum. 

Enter  wool  and  Boil  11-4  hours. 
Sadden  with 

3  lbs.  Alum, 

4  Ground  Fustic. 

Boil  1-2  hour  longer;  lay  1  hour;  draw  oft' 

No.  75.— Grass  Green. 

50  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
First  rinse  in  a  tub  of  water  at  160  deg.,  for  1-2  hour, 
with  1-2  gill  Oil  Vitriol.'   Draw  oft'. 
Finish  with 

3  1-2  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B, 
Enter  the  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours. 
Sadden  with 
3  lbs.  Alum, 
10         Ground  Fustic. 
Boil  1-2  hour  longer;  draw  oft'. 

No.  76.- Green  Sage. 

100  lbs.  clean  California  wool: 
Prepare  with 

2  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  1-2  lbs.  Alum, 

4a 


THE  dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


63 


3  1-2  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol, 
8  oz.  Tin  Crystals, 

Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;   lay  3  or  4  hours. 
Finish  with 

7  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 

4  lbs.  Salt, 

1  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

6  1-2  oz.  Ground  Logwood. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;   lay  4  hours  ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  77.— Blue. 

200  lbs.  clean  American  fleece  wool : 

First  rinse  in  a  tub  of  water  at  160  deg.,  for  1  hour, 
with  2  quarts  Oil  Vitriol.    Draw  oft'. 
Prepare  with 
12  lbs.  Alum, 
10         Oil  Vitriol, 
6  Chrome, 

2  Tin  Crystals. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

40  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 

o  Alum, 
10  Salt. 

Boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  3  hours  ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  75.— Green  Drab. 

50  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 


64 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


4  oz.  Chrome, 
1  Tartar, 

1  Muriate  Tin. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

10  1-2  oz.  Madder, 

4  oz.  Camwood, 

2  Ground  Logwood, 

3  1-4  lbs.  Ground  Fustic. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  79."  Green  Sage. 

60  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
First  rinse  in  a  tub  of  water  at  160  deg.,  for  1-2  hou? , 
with  1-2  gill  of  Oil  Vitriol.    Draw  off. 
Finish  with 

2  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B, 

3  lbs.  Alum. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  1  hour. 
Sadden  wnth 

5  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

6  lbs.  Madder. 

Boil  1-2  hour  longer;  lay  1-2  hour;  draw  off. 

No.  80.- Dark  Green. 

325  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
10  lbs.  Chrome, 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


14  lbs.  xA.lum, 
5         Oxalic  Acid. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours  ;  -  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
180  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
80         Chip  Logwood. 
Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours;  lay  8  hours;  draw 

Wo.  81.— Black. 

300  lbs.  American  fleece  wool : 
Prepare  with 
10  lbs.  Chrome, 

1  Oxalic  Acid, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Half-refined  Tartar. 
Boil  wool  11-2  hours ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 

150  lbs.  Ground  Logwood. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  82.— Carmine. 

70  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 

Prepare  with  • 

11-4  lbs.  Chrome, 
1-2  Tartar, 

1  gill  Oil  Vitriol. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours. 

Finish  with 
14  1-2  lbs.  Camwood, 


66 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


10  lbs.  Madder, 
6         Ground  Fustic, 
6  oz.  Ground  Logwood. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;   lay  6  hours  ;   draw  oft' 
and  smoor  to  shade. 

No.  83."  Brown. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
5  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  1-2  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol, 

1  lb.  Argols. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours. 
Finish  with 
40  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 

4  Chip  Hyper.nic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours;  take  out;  add 
30  lbs.  Madder, 
28  1-2  lbs.  Camwood, 

2  1-4         Chip  Logwood. 

Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  6  hours  ; 
draw  oft'. 

No.  84.— Bronze. 

250  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

3  3-4  lbs.  Chrome, 

1  3-4  Alum, 

2  lbs.  Tartar. 


THE  dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


67 


Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours;  lay  2  hours. 
Finish  with 
70  lbs.  Chip  Fustic. 
15         Chip  Hypernic, 
15         Chip  Logwood. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
10  lbs.  Madder. 
Enter  wool  at  170  deg.  and  boil  1  1-2  hours;    lay  2 
hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  85.— Yellow. 

200  lbs.  clean  American  fleece  wool  : 

9  lbs.  Extract  Qiier-citron  Bark, 

2  Madder, 

1         Oxalic  Acid, 

5  quarts  Muriate  Tin. 
Enter  wool  at  125  deg.  ;    then  boil  to  shade,  or  1  1-2 
hours  ;  draw  ofl'  and  cool  down. 

No.  86.— Green. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
5  lbs.  Chrome, 
13  Alum, 
12        Oil  Vitriol, 
1  3-4  lbs.  Muriate  Tin. 
Enter  wool  at  180  deg.  and  boil  2  hours  ;    lay  3  hours ; 
draw  ofl'. 


68 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Finish  with 
60  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 

11-2  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 
12  lbs.  Salt, 
10  Alum. 

Enter  wool  at  160  deg.  and  boil  2  hours;  lay  2  hours, 
or  until  even.    Draw  off. 

No.  87.-- Light  Yellow. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 

3  lbs.  Extract  Qiier-citron  Bark, 

4  Extract  Fustic, 
2  quarts  Muriate  Tin. 

Enter  wool  at  125  deg.  and  boil  to  shade,  or  11-2  hours  ; 
draw  off  and  cool  down. 

No.  88.— Stone  Drab. 

200  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
2  lbs.  Chrome, 
2  Alum, 

1  1-2  lbs.  Tartar. 
Boil  wool  11-2  hours. 
Finish  with 

9  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

2  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 
7  1-2  lbs.  Camwood, 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


9  lbs.  Madder, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Nutgalls. 

Enter  the  wool  at  150  deg.,  and  boil  2  hours. 
Sadden  with 
10  oz.  Copperas. 
Boil  wool  1-2  hour  longer  ;  draw  off. 

No.  89.— China  Blue. 

70  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
First  rinse  the  wool  in  a  tub  of  water,  at  180  deg.,  for 
1  hour,  with 

1  quart  Oil  Vitriol  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 

7  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B., 

8  lbs.  Alum. 

Enter  the  wool  and  boil  1  hour ;  draw  off. 

No.  90.— Light  Blue. 

100  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 

1  lb.  Nicholson  Blue.    6  B, 

2  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours ;   draw  off. 
Finish  with,  (or  Sour  Tub), 

3  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  wool  and  lay  i  hour  at  130  deg.  ;  draw  off. 


70 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


No.  91.— Yellow  Green. 

100  lbs.  coarse  Texas  wool: 
5        Extract  Indigo, 
12  oz.  Picric  Acid, 
8  lbs.  Alum, 

1  pint  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  wool  at  160  deg.  and  boil  1  hour;  lay  1  hour; 
draw  off. 

No.  92.— Dark  Brown. 

200  lbs.  clean  American  fleece  wool : 
Prepare  with 

4  lbs.  Chrome, 

2  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  2  hours ;  draw  ofl'. 

Finish  with 
15  lbs.  Brazil-wood, 
25  Camwood. 
25  Madder, 
11         Ground  Logwood, 
20        Ground  Fustic. 

Boil  wool  1  1-4  hours. 

Sadden  with 

5  lbs.  Copperas. 

Boil  1-2  hour  longer  ;  draw  ofl'. 

No.  93.— Light  Prussian  Blue. 

250  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 
Prepare  with 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


71 


14:  ll)s.  Red  Prussiate  Potash, 
15         Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  wool  at  100  deg.  ;    heat  slowly  to  a  boil,  (don't 
boil),  take  wool  up  and  add  to  the  liquor 
9  oz.  Magenta  Crystals, 
8  lbs.  Sal-soda. 
Enter  wool  at  125  deg.  and  bring  to  a  boil ;    lay  1-2 
hour  ;  draw  off  and  wash  well. 

No.  94.— Sage. 

300  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
2  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
2  1-2  Alum, 
2  1-2  Tartar. 
Boil  wool  11-2  hours;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 

4  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 
4  1-2        Ground  Fustic. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  95.— Light  Blue. 

100  lbs.  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 
1  3-4  lbs.  Alum, 
1  1-4        Oxalic  Acid, 
1  1-2  Tartar, 
1  lb.  Chrome. 


72 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Boil  1  hour  ;  draw  ofl'. 
P'inish  with 
10  lbs.  Chip  Logwood. 
Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out :  add 
1  pint  Ammonia. 

Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  1  hour:  di-aw  off. 

No.  96.— Light  Olive. 

170  lbs.  clean  California  wool  : 
Prepare  with 

3  lbs.  Chrome, 

1  1-2  lbs.  Alum, 
1  1-2  Tartar, 
1  gill  Oil  Vitriol. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
22  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 

4  Camwood. 
9  Madder, 

10  oz.  Ground  Logwood. 
Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  and  boil  2  hours  ;   draw  off  and 
it  will  smoor  up  to  shade. 

No.  97.— Cinnamon  Brown. 

225  lbs.  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 

5  lbs.  Chrome', 
4  Alum, 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE.  ,  73 

2  lbs.  Tartar. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
75  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours;  take  out;  add 
30  lbs.  Red  Sanders. 
25  Madder, 
2  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Logwood. 
Enter  wool  at  160  deg.  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  98.— Maroon. 

100  lbs.  clean  Texas  wool : 

11-2  lbs.  Acid  Maroon, 

1  1-2        Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  the  wool  at  140  deg.  ;  boil  1  hour ;  draw  off. 

No.  99.— Dark  Brown. 

200  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 

Prepare  with 

8  lbs.  Chrome, 

4  Argols, 

1  quart  Oil  Vitriol. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 

Finish  with 
170  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
108         Chip  Hypernic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours;  take  out;  add 
50  lbs.  Madder, 


74 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


50  lbs.  Camwood, 
15         Ground  Logwood. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours;  lay  6  hours;  draw  oft. 

No.  lOO.—  Red  Brown. 

250  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 

4  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  1-2  lbs.  Alum, 
1-2  lb.  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 

Finish  with 
45  lbs.  Chip  Fustic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours;  take  out;  add 
15  lbs.  Madder, 

5  Red  Sanders, 

1         Ground  Logwood. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours. 

Sadden  with 

1  1-2  lbs.  Copperas. 

Boil  1-2  hour  longer  ;    draw  off. 

No.  101.-- Red  Brown. 

200  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
5  lbs.  Chrome, 
3  1-2  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol, 
1  lb.  Half-refined  Tartar. 


THE  DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


Boil  1  1-2  hours ;  lay  2  hours. 

Finish  with 
30  lbs.  Madder, 
23  Camwood, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 
21  lbs.  Chip  Fustic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours;  take  out. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  5  hours  ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  102.— Dark  Olive  Brown. 

365  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 
7  3-4  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  1-2        Red  Argols, 
1  quart  Oil  Vitriol. 

Boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  4  hours. 

Finish  with 
175  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
160         Chip  Hypernic, 
14        Logwood.  • 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out  ;  add 

5  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw 

No.  103.— Drab. 

400  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 
20  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 


76 


']'HE   dyer's   practical  Gl^IDE. 


4  1-2  lbs.  Camwood, 

1  3-4  Alum, 

11-2         Ground  Fustic, 

2  lbs.  vSicily  Sumac, 
6  Madder. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  1  hour. 
Sadden  with 

2  3-4  lbs.  Copperas. 

Boil  wool  1-4  hour  longer  ;  draw  off. 

No.  104.-  Brown. 

275  lbs.  coarse  Texas  wool : 
90  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
22         Chip  Logwood, 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
65  lbs.  Red  Sanders, 
10  Camwood, 
10  Madder. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours. 

Sadden  with 

3  1-2  lbs.  Cc'pperas, 
1-2         Blue  Vitriol. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hour  longer;  lay  4  hours;  draw  off. 

No.  105.— Violet. 

200  lbs.  coarse  Texas  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
15  1-4  lbs.  Alum, 


THE  DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


77 


5  lbs.  Argols, 

1  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

4  1-2        Muriate  Tin. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 

2  lbs.  Hoffman  Violet.    2  B. 

Enter  wool  at  160  deg.  and  boil  1  1-2  hours;  lay  8 
hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  106.— Black  Brown 

400  lbs.  coarse  Texas  wool : 
170        Chip  Logwood, 
200         Chip  Fustic, 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
42  lbs.  Camwood, 
28       .  Madder. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours. 
Sadden  with 
30  lbs.  Copperas. 
Boil  1-2  hour  longer  ;  draw  off. 

No.  107.— Green  Olive. 

180  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 
4  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

3  lbs.  Argols, 
3  Alum. 
Boil  wool  2  hours. 


78 


THE  DYER  S  PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


Finish  with 

50  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 

13  1-2  lbs.  Chip  Logwood. 
Boil  bags  11-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 

10  lbs.  Red  Sanders, 

10  Madder. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  ofl. 

No.  108.— Blue  Mulberry. 

300  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 
10  lbs.  Chrome, 
20  Alum, 
5  Tartar. 
Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
230  lbs.  Chip  Hypernic, 
65         Chip  Logwood. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  oft. 

No.  109.— Light  Mulberry. 

300  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 

Prepare  with 

4  1-2  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 
15  lbs.  Alum. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours. 

Finish  with 
•  66  lbs.  Chip  Logwood. 

5a 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


79 


Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  2  liours  ;  draw  oft. 

No.  110.— Blue  Mulberry. 

300  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 
4  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
12  lbs.  Alum, 
4  oz.  Tin  Crystals, 

2  lbs.  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours. 

Finish  with 
96  lbs.  Chip  Hypernic, 
35         Chip  Logwood. 

Boil  bags  11-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 

16  lbs.  Cudbear. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  lay  4  hours  ;  draw  oft\ 

No.  111.- Slate  Drab. 

250  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 

3  lbs.  Ground  Fustic,  - 
19       Ground  Logwood, 

2  Camwood, 
6  Madder. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours. 
Sadden  with 

1-2  lb.  Alum, 

1-2  lb.  Copperas. 
Boil  wool  1-2  hour  longer  ;  draw  oft\ 


80 


THE   dyer's    practical  GUIDE. 


No.  112.— Light  Mulberry. 

250  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 

2  1-4  lbs.  Cudbear, 

1  1-4  Alum, 

11  1-4  Ground  Logwood. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  1  hour. 
Sadden  with 

3  lbs.  Cc'pperas. 

Boil  1-4  hour  longer  ;  draw  off. 

No.  *113.— Prussian  Blue. 

100  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 

5  1-2  lbs.  Red  Prussiate  Potash, 

6  1-2  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  wool  at  100  deg.  and  bring  slowly  to  a  boil  ; 
take  the  wool  up  and  add  to  the  dye 

8  lbs.  Chip   Logwood,  which    has   been  previously 
boiled  in  a  barrel  for  1  hour, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Muriate  Tin, 

1  1-2  oz.  Acid  Magenta. 
Enter  wool  at  150  deg.  for  15  minutes;   then  bring  to  a 
boil  and  boil  to  shade  ;  draw  off  and  wash  well. 

No.  114.— Aniline  Blue. 

100  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
1  1-4  lbs.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B, 

3  lbs.  Sal-soda. 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


81 


Enter  wool  and  boil  1  hour  ;   lay  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 

7  oz.  4  B  Hoffman  Violet, 
5  lbs.  Aqua  Ammonia.    3  F. 
Enter  wool  at  130  deg.  and  lay  i  hour  ;  heat  to  160  deg.  ; 
draw  off. 

This  blue  will  stand  any  amount  of  fulling. 

No.  115.— Light  Mulberry. 

300  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool  : 
Prepare  with 
4  lbs.  Chrome, 
10  Alum, 
2  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 
130  lbs.  Chip  Hypernic, 

28         Chip  Logwood. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
20  Cudbear. 
Enter  the  wool  and  boil  2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  116.— Dark  Mulberry. 

275  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 
7  lbs.  Chrome, 
10  Alum, 
4  Tartar, 


82 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


3  lbs.  Muriate  Tin. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours. 

Finish  with 
200  lbs.  Chip  Hypernic, 
60  Logwood. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  6  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  117.— Prussian  Blue, 

100  lbs.  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 

6  lbs.  Red  Prussiate  of  Potash, 
6         Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  wool  at  100  deg.  and  bring  slowly  to  a  boil.  Take 
the  wool  up  and  add  to  the  dye 

10  lbs.  Chip    Logwood,   which    has    been  previously 
boiled  for  1  hour  in  a  barrel, 
3  lbs.  Muriate  Tin. 
Enter  wool  at  125  deg.  again  for  1-4  of  an  hour,  then 
bring  to  a  boil  and  boil  to  shade  ;    draw  off  and  wash  well. 

No.  118.— Green  Olive. 

150  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 
2  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

1  1-4  Alum, 

2  lbs.  Tartar. 

Boil  wool  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 

Finish  with 
14  oz.  Ground  Logwood, 
30  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

2  Madder. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  1  1-2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  119.—  Olive. 

250  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 
5  lbs.  Chrome, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Tartar, 
1  1-2  Alum. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
130  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 

3  3-4  lbs.  Chip  Logwood. 

Boil  bags  11-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
24  lbs.  Madder, 
10  Camwood. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  120.- Seal  Brown. 

250  lbs.  clean  California  wool : 

98        Chip  Fustic, 

18  Camwood, 
3         Ground  Logwood, 

16  Madder. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours  ;   lay  3  hours. 


84 


THE  dyer's   PRACTICAI>  GUIDE. 


Sadden  with 

3  1-2  lbs.  Copperas, 
3-4        Blue  Vitriol. 

Boil  wool  1-2  hour  longer;  draw  off. 

No.  121.— Tan  Brown. 

300  lbs.  clean  coarse  Texas  wool : 
Prepare  with 
7  lbs.  Chrome, 
2        Red  Argols, 

1  quart  Oil  Vitriol. 

Boil  wool  11-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
100  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
6        Chip  Hypernic. 
Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 

2  lbs.  Ground  Logwood, 

4  Camwood, 
20  Madder. 

Enter  wool  and  boil  2  hours  ;   lay  1  hour ;  draw  off. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE.' 


85 


REMARKS 


ON  SHODDY  DYEING. 

All  the  receipts  herein  given  are  practical  and  my  own 
work.  There  is  a  great  deal  ofx^lifference  sometimes  in 
the  stock,  and  of  course  in  such  cas>s^t  requires  judg- 
ment, as  shoddy  or  rags  vary  in  color ;  some  are  lighter 
and  some  darker. 

Also  w^hen  the  stock  is  colored  in  the  rag,  the  picking 
and  carding  change  it  sometimes,  several  shades,  either 
lighter  or  darker,  as  the  case  may  be  ;  therefore  great  care 
must  be  taken  before  hand,  and  that  is  the  reason  shoddy 
or  rag  coloring  is  so  bothersome.  When  coloring  shoddy 
always  pole  well,  as  it  generally  lumps  up  when  it  gets  to 
the  dye. 


86 


THE  dyer's   PRACTICAE  GUIDE. 


Receipts  for  Shoddy. 


/\  No.  1.— Scarlet. 

500  lbs.  Red  Rags  : 
10  Cochineal, 
10        Muriate  Tin, 

1  Flavine. 

Enter  rags  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  2.~  Olive.  S 

oO(»  lbs.  Extracted  Seams,  not  washed  from^Acid  : 

Prepare  with 
28  lbs.  Chrome, 
28        Oxalic  Acid. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour ;  draw  ofl. 

Finish  with 

2  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 
2  Flavine, 

6        Muriate  Tin, 
1         Tin  Crystals. 
Enter  wool  and  boil  11-2  hours. 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE.  87 

No.  3.— Sample  of  Shoddy.  3 

Sample  of  Extract  Merino  (not  very  dark)  that  numbers 
2,  6,  8,  10,  22,  52,  78,  were  colored  on. 


No.  4.— Navy  Blue.   (Indigo  Test.) 

500  lbs.  dark  sorted  Merinos,  not  extracted,  the  Cotton 
only  being  sorted  out : 
Prepare  with 
12  lbs.  Chrome, 
40  Alum, 
20        Oxalic  Acid. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  11-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
50  lbs.  Chip  Logwood. 
Boil  bags  11-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
125  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 
22  oz.  Acid  Magenta. 
Enter  stock  at  170  deg.  and  boil  2  hours;   lay  6  hours; 
draw  off. 


No.  5.— Olive.  / 

300  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino,  washed  : 
115  lbs.  Ground  Tumeric, 
60        Oxalic  Acid, 
2  gallons  Nitric  Acid. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 


88 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


No.  6.— Aniline  Blue.  ^ 

100  lbs.  Extract  Seams,  washed  : 
This  stock  was  rather  ho^ht. 
Prepare  with 
9  lbs.  Sal-soda, 

1         2  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    6  B. 
^nter  stock  and  boil  1  hour. 
Sour  with 
5  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  wool  at  130  deg.  ;  lay  1-2  hour;   draw  off. 

No.  7.— Green. 

250  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino  :  ^ 
This  stock  was  not  washed  from  acid. 
Prepare  with 
5  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid,  . 
18  Chrome, 
10  Alum. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  1-4  hours. 

Finish  with 
50  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 
17        Extract  Fustic  Liquor,  51  deg., 
10  Alum. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

•  ^       No.  8.— Acid  Magenta.  S 

100  lbs.  Extract  Seams,  not  washed    from  acid,  dark 
colors  sorted  out : 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


89 


1  lb.  Acid  Magenta. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 

Note. —  If  this  stock  had  been  washed  after  acid,  it 
would  take  in  coloring  3  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol  with  the  Aniline. 


1  1-4  lbs.  Acid  Magenta. 
.  Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour;  draw  off. 

Note. — If  this  stock  had  been  washed  after  the  acid,  it 
would  take  in  coloring  3  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol  with  the  Aniline. 


100  lbs.  Extract  Merino,  not  washed  very  well  from  the 
Acid  : 

1  1-4  lbs.  Nicholson  Blue.    6  B, 
8  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  2  hours ;  draw  off. 
Sour  with 

2  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  stock  at  130  deg.  for  1  hour;  draw  off. 


No.  9.— Dark  Acid  Magenta. 


100  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino,  not  washed  from  the  acid  : 


No.  10.— Aniline  Blue. 


5" 


No.  11.— Brown  Olive.  / 


250  lbs.  Extract  Seams,  not  very  well  washed *ffom  Acid  : 
Prepare  with  ^ 
12  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 
12  Chrome. 


90 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


Enter  stock  and  boil  11-4  hours. 
Finish  with 

6  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 
4  lbs.  Camwood, 
1  Madder, 
4        Muriate  Tin. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 


/V.  No.  12.- Light  Green. 

100  lbs.  Red  Rags: 

Prepare  with 

6  lbs.  Chrome, 

8  1-2  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 

8  1-2        Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  11-2  hours. 

Finish  with 
20  lbs.  Extract  Indigo. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour ;  take  up  ;  add  to  the  dye 
30  oz.  Picric  Acid, 

3  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  again  for  1-2  hour  or  more,  (don't  boil  it)  ; 


draw  off. 


No.  13.- Brown. 


125  lbs.  dark  Seams,  30  per  cent  cotton  : 
Prepare  with 
35  lbs.  Cutch, 
7        Extract  Qiier-citron  Bark, 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


91 


4  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Hypernic, 
7  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  stock  at  150  deg.  for  1  hour,  then  heat  up  slowly 
to  190  cleg.  ;  lay  at  this  heat  1  hour  ;  draw  oft'  and 
Finish  with 

6  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

2  1-2        Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  at  160  deg.  for  1-2  hour,  then  heat  up  to  190 
deg.  for  1-2  hour  ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  14.— Drab. 

100  lbs.  Red  Rags,  (picked)  : 

5  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

7  1-2         Oil  Vitriol, 

7  1-2        Oxalic  Acid. 
Enter'stock  and  boil  1  hour;  draw  off'. 

No.  15.— GMernsey  Blue. 

100  lbs.  Red  Rags: 

2  Guernsey  Blue, 
5  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  2  hours. 
Sour  with 

3  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  stock  at  130  deg.  for  1  hour  ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  16.— Brown. 

125  lbs.  dark  Seams,  30  per  cent  cotton  :      ^  ^ 
Prepare  with 


92 


THE   dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


25  lbs.  Cutch, 
8         Extract  Hypernic, 

5  Extract  Bark, 

7  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  stock  at  150  deg.  for  1  hour,  then  heat  up  slowly 
to.  190  deg.  ;  lay  at  this  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
.7  lbs.  Chrome, 
3        Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  at  160  deg.  for  1-2  hour,  then  heat  up  to  190 
deg.  ;  draw  off. 

Wo.  17.— Brown. 

200  lbs.  dark  sorted  Merino,  not  extracted  : 
20  Gambier, 

6  Extract  Hypernic, 

6  Extract  Qiier-pitron  Bark, 

8  Extract  Fustic  Liquor,  51  deg., 

7  Blue  Vitriol. 

While  the  stock  is  entering 'in  the  tub  throw  on 
35  lbs.  Camwood, 
Enter  stock  and  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 

No.  18.--Blue.    (Red  Shade.) 

250  lbs.  Unextracted  Dark  Softs : 
2  3-4. lbs.  Alkaline  Blue.    R.  Extra, 
12  lbs.  Sal-soda. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


93 


Finish  with 
6  oz.  Acid  Magenta, 
10  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  at  160  deg.  for  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 

No.  19.  — Seal  Brown.    (Red  Shade.) 

500  lbs.  Red  Rags : 

35        Extract  Fustic, 

30        Extract  Logwood, 
8        Extract  Quer-citron  Bark, 

25  Gambler, 

10        Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  1  1-2  hours;  draw  off. 


7  1-2         Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  11-2  hours;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 

1  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Indigo. 
Enter  stock  at  120  deg.  and  heat  slowly  to  a  boil  ;  draw 


No.  20.- Bleach. 


100  lbs.  Red  Rags,  (picked)  : 
Prepare  with 
5  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
7  1-2         Oxalic  Acid, 


off. 


No.  21.— Light  Olive. 

300  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy  : 
Prepare  with 


X  A 


94 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


17  lbs.  Chrome, 

15         Oxalic  Acid. 


Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour. 
Finish  with 
60  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
Boil  bags  11-2  hours;  take  out;  add 
6  lbs.  Madder, 
5        Muriate  Tin. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours ;  draw  off. 


No.  22.— Green.  ^ 

100  lbs.  Extracted  Seams: 
Prepare  with 
•5  3-4  lbs.  Chrome, 
19  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  15  minutes. 
Finish  with 
10  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 
1         Picric  Acid. 
Enter  stock  at  125  deg.  for  1-4  hour;  then  heat  to  a  boil 
and  draw  oft'. 


No.  23.— Light  Smoke. 


65  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy : 

Prepare  with 

7  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 

5  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 
14  Alum, 


6a 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


95 


10  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  shoddy  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 

8  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

1-2  lb.  Ground  Logwood, 
1  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  24.- Black. 

100  lbs.  dai^v  Seams,  35^  per  cent  cotton  : 
17        Extract  Logwood, 

3        Extract  Qtier-citron  Bark, 
16  Cutch, 

6        Blue  Vitriol, 
10        Aqua  Ammonia.    3  F. 
Enter  stock  at  150  deg.  and  lay  i  1-4  hours ;   heat  up 
slowly  to  195  deg.;   lay  at  this  heat  for  1  hour  and  it  ig 
finished. 

This  dye  can  be  kept  for  future  use  by  reducing  1-4  on 
next  2  dips,  and  then  keep  at  that  for  the  standard. 

No.  25.— Carmine. 

50  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy  : 
Prepare  with 

1  3-4  lbs.  Chrome, 

2  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  1-4  hours  ;  draw  off. 
Fmish  with 


96 


THE  DYER  S  PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


8  1-2  lbs.  Camwood, 
4  lbs.  Madder, 

2  Ground  Fustic. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  1-2  hours;  draw  off. 

No.  26.— Bright  Olive. 

140  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy  :  X 

Prepare  with 
20  lbs.  Chrome, 
30        Oxalic  Acid. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour ;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 
16  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

1  1-2  lbs.  Camwood, 

3  1-4  Flavine, 
8  lbs.  Muriate  Tin. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 

No.  27.— Bronze.  , 

264  lbs.  dark  Merino  Extract  Shoddy  :         ^  ' 

Prepare  with 
32  lbs.  Chrome, 
40        Oxalic  Acid. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour. 

Finish  with 
60  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
16        Chip  Logwood. 

Boil  bags  11-2  hours  ;  take  out. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  1  1-2  hours ;  draw  off. 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


No.  28.— Light  Brown. 

200  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy  : 

Prepare  with 
25  lbs.  Chrome, 
25        Oxalic  Acid. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour ;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 
24  lbs.  Ground  Fustic, 

6  Madder, 

8  Camwood, 

2  Flavine, 

4  quarts  Muriate  Tin, 
Enter  shoddy  and  boil  1  1-2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  29.— Navy  Blue.  / 

375  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino  Rags  :  ^ 
Prepare  with 

3  1-2  lbs.  Alkaline  Blue.    R.  Extra, 
12  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  rags  and  boil  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
25  lbs.  Chip  Logwood. 
Boil  bags  2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
20  lbs.  Alum. 
Enter  rags  at  180  deg.  ;  lay  2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  30.— Aniline  Blue. 

300  lbs.  light  colored  Stockinets : 
Prepare  dye-bath  with 


98 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


3  lbs.  Alkaline  Blue.    3  B, 
15  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  1-2  hours. 
Sour  with 
12  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  at  140  deg.  for  1  hour;  draw  off. 

No.  31.— Cardinal  Red. 

100  lbs.  dark  Delaine  Extract: 
Prepare  with 

Nitric  Acid,  testing  4  by  No.  1  Twaddle,  (test  when 
cold.) 

Enter  stock  boiling;   boil  1-4  hour;  take  up  and  rinse 
well  in  cold  water  and  whiz. 
Finish  with 

1  1-4  lbs.  Fast  Red  R.  R.,  (double  strength,)  or 

2  1-2         Fast  Red  R,  and 
11-2         Ox.  Muriate  Antimony. 

Enter  stock  at  120  deg.  ;  lay  1-2  hour;  heat  to  140  deg.  ; 
draw  off. 

No.  32.— Aniline  Blue. 

250  lbs.  Stockinets  : 
Prepare  dye-bath  with 
2  1-4  lbs.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B, 

4  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  2  hours. 
Finish  with 
10  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Pinter  stock  at  140  deg.  for  1  hour ;  draw  off. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


99 


No.  33.— Scarlet. 

100  lbs.  dark  Delaine  Extract: 
Prepare  with 

Nitric  Acid,  testing  (when  cold)  4,  by  No.  1  Twaddle. 
Enter  stock  boiling;   boil  1-4  hour;  take  up  and  rinse 
well  in  cold  water  and  whiz. 
Finish  with 
14  oz.  Fast  Red  R.  R.  (double  strength,  )  or 
28       Fast  Red  R,  and 

1  lb.  Ox.  Muriate  Antimony. 

Enter  stock  at  120  deg.  ;  lay  1-2  hour  and  heat  to  140 
deg.  ;  draw  off. 

No.  34.— Tan  Brown. 

100  lbs.  dark  Delaine  Extract:  , 
Prepare  with 
5  lbs.  Chrome, 
8  1-4  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol, 

2  1-2        Oxahc  Acid. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
12  lbs.  Tumeric, 
8  Camwood. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  35.—  Golden  Brown. 

100  lbs.  dark  Delaine  Extract: 
Prepare  with 


100 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


2  lbs.  Chrome, 
8  1-2  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
1  3-4  lbs.  Flavine, 
1  1-2  Cochineal, 
6  lbs.  Muriate  Tin. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  11-2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  36.— ;Dark  Green  Olive. 

350  lbs.  dark  Woollen  Clips  : 

Prepare  with 
20  lbs.  Chrome, 
40        Oxalic  Acid, 
25        Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  clips  and  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 
12  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 

4        Extract  Hypernic, 

4        Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  chips  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  ofi. 

No.  37.— Olive. 

100  lbs.  dark  Delaine  Extract: 
Prepare  with 
4  lbs.  Chrome, 
12        Oxalic  Acid. 
Boil  stock  1-2  hour  ;  draw  off. 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


101 


Finish  with 
2  lbs.  Flavine, 

1  1-4  lbs.  Cochineal, 
4  lbs.  Muriate  Tin. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour ;  draw  off. 

No.  38.— Light  Brown. 

100  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino  Rags : 
Prepare  with 
15  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 

2  3-4  lbs.  Chrome. 

Enter  rags  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
2  1-2  lbs.  Flavine, 
11-4  Cochineal, 
8  lbs.  Muriate  Tin. 
Enter  rags  and  boil  1  hour ;  draw  oft. 

No.  39.— Orange. 

100  lbs.  light  Delaine  Extract : 
Prepare  with 

Nitric  Acid,  testing  (when  cold)  3  by  No.  1  Twaddle. 
Enter  stock  boiling;   boil  1-4  hour;  take  up  and  rinse 
well  in  cold  water  and  whiz. 
Finish  with 
10  oz.  Fast  Red  R.  R.,  double  strength,  or 

1  1-4  lbs.  Fast  Red  R.  and 
12  oz.  Ox.  Muriate  Antimony. 


102 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Enter  stock  at  120  deg.  and  lay  1  hour ;  heat  up  to  140  ; 
draw  off. 

No.  40.— Dark  Brown. 

480  lbs.  dark  Woollen  Clips : 
Prepare  with 
75  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 
25  Chrome. 
Enter  clips  and  boil  1-2  hour  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
30  lbs.  Extract  Qiier-citron  Bark, 
17        Extract  Hypernic, 
16        Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  clips  and  boll  1  hour ;  draw  off. 

No.  41.- Olive. 

100  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino  Rags: 

Prepare  with  J\ 
12  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 
7  1-2  lbs.. Chrome. 

Enter  rags  and  boil  1  1-2  hours ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
5  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 
10  oz.  Extract  Logwood. 
Enter  rags  and  boil  11-4  hours  ;  draw  off. 


No.  42.— Red  Rags.  (Picked.) 

Sample  of  Red  Rags  that  are  picked  and  that  numbers 
1,  12,  14,  15,  19,  20,  49,  57,  69,  and  71,  were  done  from. 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


103 


No.  43.— Fawn.  , 

100  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino  Rags : 

Nitric  Acid,  testing  (when  cold)  1  1-2  by  the  No.  1 
Twaddle. 

Enter  rags  boiling  and  boil  1-4  of  an  hour;  then  take 
out  and  wash  them  in  cold  water  and  they  are  finished. 


No.  44.— Brown. 

850  lbs.  dark  Woollen  Clips : 

Prepare  with 
100  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 
60  Chrome, 
30        Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  clips  and  boil  1  1-2  hours. 
Finish  425  lbs.  of  them  with 
28  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 
20        Extract  Hypernic, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Logwood, 
12  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  clips  and  boil  11-4  hours ;  draw  off. 


No.  45.— Olive. 

100  lbs.  dark  Extract  Merino  Rags  : 
Prepare  with 
9  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 
4  Chrome. 

Enter  rags  and  boil  11-4  hours. 


104 


THE  DYER  S  PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


Finish  with 

6  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 

3  lbs.  Muriate  Tin. 

Enter  rags  and  boil  1  1-4  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  46.— Blue. 

100  lbs.  dark  Delaine  Extract : 
Prepare  with 

4  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1-2  hour  ;  draw  oft'. 
Finish  with 

1  lb.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B. 
1  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  oft^ 
Sour  with 
3  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  at  140  deg.  ;  lay  1  hour ;   draw  oft\ 

No.  47.— Bed  Brown. 

100  lbs.  dark  Delaine  Extract: 
Prepare  with 
6  lbs.  Chrome, 
8         Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour. 
Finish  with 
15  lbs.  Camwood, 
13        Ground  Fustic. 
Enter  stock  and  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  oft\ 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


105 


No,  48,- Navy  Blue.   (Indigo  Test.) 


100  lbs.  dark  sorted  Merinos,  not  extracted,  the  Cotton 
only  being  sorted  out : 
Prepare  with 
2  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
8  lbs.  Alum. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  1  1-2  hours ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
35  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 
4  1-2  oz.  Acid  Magenta. 
Enter  stock  at  170  deg.  and  boil  2  hours;   lay  6  hours; 
draw  oft'. 


25        Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  rags  and  boil  1  hour,  not  any  longer  ;   draw  oft' 
and  cool  down. 


125  lbs.  dark  Delaine  Extract : 

Nitric  Acid,  testing  (when  cold)  4  by  No.  1  Twaddle. 
Enter  stock  boiling ;  boil  15  minutes  ;  then  take  out  and 
wash  in  cold  water  and  whiz,  and  it  is  finished. 


250  lbs.  Red  Rags  : 
15  Chrome, 
15        Oxalic  Acid, 


No.  49.— Bleach. 


No.  50.— Yellow. 


106 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


No.  51.- Black.    (One  Dip.) 

300  lbs.  Silk  and  Wool  Waste : 

35        Extract  Logwood, 

]  0  Cc'pperas, 
6        Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  at  160  deg.  ;  lay  1  hour  ;  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 

No.  52.- Olive  Brown.  3 

100  lbs.  extract  Merino,  not  very  dark  : 
12  Gambler, 

4  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol, 

3  1-2        Extract  Fustic, 

3  1-2        Extract  Quer-citron  Bark, 

3  1-2        Extract  Hypernic, 

3  1-2        Extract  Logwood. 
Enter  stock  ;  boil  2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  53.— Blue  Black. 

300  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy  : 
Prepare  with 
12  lbs.  Chrome, 
2        Oxalic  Acid, 
6        Rock  Salt. 

Enter  shoddy  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
150  lbs.  Chip  Logwood. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;   take  out ;   enter  shoddy  ;  boil 
hours ;  draw  off. 


THE  dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


107 


No.  54.— Green. 

50  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy  : 
Prepare  with 

4  lbs.  Chrome, 
3  1-2  lbs.  Alum, 

5  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol, 

1  Tin  Crystals. 

Enter  stock;  boil  1  1-4  hours;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
10  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 
,     1         Oil  Vitriol, 

2  Rock  Salt. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  6  hours  ;  draw  oft. 

No.  55.— Dark  Brown. 

300  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy : 
Prepare  with 
9  lbs.  Chrome, 

6  Oil  Vitriol, 

3  Tartar. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  oft'. 

Finish  with 
140  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
26        Chip  Logwood. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
12  lbs.  Camwood. 

Enter  stock ;  boil  1  1-2  hours. 

Sadden  with 


108 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


7  3-4  lbs.  Copperas, 
1  1-2        Blue  Vitriol. 
Boil  stock  1-2  hour  longer  ;    lay  6  hours  ;  draw  off  and 
smoor,  if  needed,  2  hours. 

No.  56.— Dark  Brown. 

775  lbs.  Very  Dark  Extract  Merino  Rags  ; 

Prepare  with 
60  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 
30  Chrome. 

Enter  stock;  boil  11-2  hours. 

Finish  400  lbs.  of  them  with 

27  lbs.  Extract  Quer-citron  Bark, 

28  Extract  Fustic, 
4        Extract  Hypernic. 

Enter  rags  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  57.— Tan  Brown. 

500  lbs.  Red  Rags  : 

Prepare  with 
40  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 
30  Chrome. 

Enter  rags  ;  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 

3  lbs.  Extract  Hypernic, 

4  Fustic, 
3  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  rags;  boil  1  1-2  hours;  draw  off. 


X 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


109 


XX 


No.  58.— Seal  Brown. 

700  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Rags : 

25  lbs.  Extract  Quer-citron  Bark, 

40        Extract  Fustic, 

18        Extract  Logwood, 

15        Blue  Vitriol. 
When  putting  in  the  stock,  throw  on 

76  lbs.  Camwood. 
Boil  rags  2  hours ;  lay  6  hours ;  draw  off. 

Wo.  59.— Brown. 

200  lbs.  Dark  Sorted  Merinos,  not  extracted,  cotton  being 
sorted  out : 

20  lbs.  Gambier, 
6        Extract  Quer-citron  Bark, 
5        Extract  Fustic, 
8        Extract  Hypernic, 
8        Blue  Vitriol. 
When  putting  in  the  rags  throw  on 
25  lbs.  (Camwood. 
Boil  rags  2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  60.— Light  Blue  Green. 

50  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy  : 
Prepare  with 

4  lbs.  Chrome, 
3  1-2  lbs.  Alum, 

5  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol, 


110 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


1  lb.  Tin  Crystals. 
Enter  stock  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
10  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 
1  1-4  lbs.  Ground  Fustic. 

1  1-2  Alum, 

2  lbs.  Rock  Salt. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours ;  draw  off. 

No.  61. 

Sample  of  Seams  that  are  picked  that  numbers  79,  80, 
82,  83,  84,  85,  87,  and  90,  were  colored  from. 


Enter  stock  ;  boil  11-4  hours ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  oft. 

No.  63.— Green. 

100  lbs.  Dark  Delaine  Extract : 
Prepare  with 


No.  62.-- Dark  Blue  Green. 


200  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy  : 

Prepare  with 

7  lbs.  Chrome, 

7        Oxalic  Acid, 
10  Alum. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  11-4  hours. 

Finish  with 
36  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 

7        Ground  Fustic, 

2        Ground  Logwood. 


7a 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Ill 


1  lb.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B, 
7  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  11-4  hours  ;  draw  oft'. 
Finish  with 

2  1-2  lbs.  Picric  Acid, 
10  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  64.-- Light  Olive.         v  /  y/ 

300  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy  :  ^ 

Prepare  with 
32  lbs.  Chrome, 
42        Oxalic  Acid. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  11-4  hours  ;  draw  oft'. 

Finish  with 
38  lbs.  Chip  Fustic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 

4  lbs.  Madder, 

9  Camwood, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Flavine, 
iO  lbs.  Muriate  Tin. 
Enter  stock  ;  boil  11-2  hours  ;  lay  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 


No.  65.-- Dark  Smoke. 

250  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Shoddy  : 

Prepare  with 
30  lbs.  Chrome, 
40        Oxalic  Acid. 

Enter  stock  :  boil  11-4  hours  :  draw  oft\ 


112 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


Finish  vvitii 
40  lbs.  Chip  Fustic, 
30        Chip  Logwood, 

6        Chip  Hypernic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out.  * 
Enter  stock;  boil  1  1-2  hours;  lay  1  hour:  draw  oft'. 

^  J{      No.  66.— Sample  of  Shoddy. 

Sample  of  Dark  Merino  Rag  Shoddy  that  numbers  9,  13, 
16,  21,  23^20,  26,  27,  28,  38,  41,  43,  45,  53,  54,  55,  58,  60, 
62,  64,  65,  67,  76,  92  and  93  were  colored  from. 

No.  67.— Olive. 

550  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Rags  : 
Prepare  with 
70  lbs.  Oxalic  Acid, 
40  Chrome. 
Enter  rags  ;  boil  1-4  hour  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
56  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 
2  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Logwood. 
Enter  stock  ;  boil  11-2  hcau's  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  off'. 

No.  68.-  Green. 

100  lbs.  Dark  Delaine  Extract: 
Prepare  with 

1  1-4  lbs.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B. 
6  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  1  1-2  h(»urs  ;  draw  off. 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


113 


Finish  with 
13  lbs.  Chip  Fustic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
10  lbs.  Alum. 
Enter  stock  ;  boil  11-2  hours  ;  lay  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 


X 


No.  69.— Seal  Brown. 

500  lbs.  Red  Rags  : 

45        Extract  Fustic, 

30        Extract  Qiier-citron  Bark, 
6        Extract  Logwood, 

25  Gambier, 
'20    '    Blue  Vitriol. 

E^tter  i^gs  ;  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  oft. 


TsTo.  70.— Seal  Brown. 

500  lbs.  Dark  Sorted  Rags  ;  no  cotton  in  them  ;  not 
extracted. 

Prepare  with 
10  lbs.  Chrome, 
7        Oxalic  Acid. 
Enter  rags ;  boil  11-2  hours. 
Finish  with 
13  lbs.  Extract  Qiier-citron  Bark, 
13        Extract  Fustic, 
15        Extract  Hypernic, 
10         Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  rags  ;  boil  11-4  hours  ;  draw  off'. 


114 


THE    dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


No.  71.— Scarlet.  ' 

500  lbs.  Red  Rags  : 

10   .  Cochineal, 

10        Muriate  Tin, 
1-2  lb.  Flavine. 
Enter  rags  ;  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  off'. 

No.  72.— Brown. 

100  lbs.  Light  Tailois'  Clips,  28  per  cent,  cotton  in  them  : 

Prepare  with 
20  lbs.  Extract  Logwood, 
30  Sumac. 

Enter  stock  at  140  deg.  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  ofl^. 

Finish  with 

12  lbs.  Extract  Hypernic, 
8        Extract  Qtier-citron  Bark, 
8  Cutch, 
7        Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  at  150  deg.  for  1  hour ;  heat  to  190  deg.  ;  lay 
2  hours  ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  73.— Green. 

250  lbs.  Dark  Unextracted  Soft  Rags : 

Prepare  with 
20  lbs.  Chrome, 

5        Oxalic  Acid,  • 
10  Alum, 
10        Oil  Vitriol. 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


1 


Enter  rags;  boil  11-2  hours;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 
45  lbs.  Extract  Indigo, 
18        Extract  Fustic  Liquor  51  deg., 

8        Ground  Logwood, 
10  Alum. 
Enter  rags  ;  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 

No.  74.— Light  Brown. 

225  lbs.  Dark  Unextracted  Soft  Rags  : 

Prepare  with 
15  lbs.  Chrome, 
30        Oxalic  Acid, 
10        Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 

7  lbs.  Extract  Hypernic, 
23        Extract  Fustic  Liquor,  51  deg., 
15  Camwood, 
20  Alum, 
30  Tumeric. 
Enter  stock  ;  boil  11-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  75.—  Blue. 

250  lbs.  Dark  Unextracted  Soft  Rags  : 
Prepare  with 

2  3-4  lbs.  Alkaline  Blue  R.  extra, 
12  lbs.  Sal-soda. 
Enter  stock  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 


116 


THE  DYER  S  PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


Sour  with 
10  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  rags  at  140  deg.  ;  lay  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 

No.  76.— Merrimac  Brown. 

325  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Rags.  These  rags  were 
well  rinsed. 

22  lbs.  Exti'act  Fustic  Liquor,  51  deg., 
10        Extract  Hypernic, 
2        Extract  Logwood, 
12        Blue  Vitriol. 
When  putting  in  rags,  throw  on 
20  lbs.  Camwood. 
Boil  rags  11-4  hours  ;  lay  3  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  77.— Light  Brown. 

225  lbs.  Dark  Unextracted  Soft  Rags  : 

Prepare  with 
15  lbs.  Chrome, 
30        Oxalic  Acid, 
10         Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  stock;  boil  1  1-2  hours;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 
33  lbs.  Extract  Fustic  Liquor,  51  deg., 

5        Extract  Hypernic, 
20  Alum, 
15  Camwood, 

2        Blue  Vitriol, 


THE   DVER's   practical  GUIDE. 


117 


30  Tumeric. 
Enter  rags  ;  boil  11-2  hours  ;  lay  1  hour ;  draw  off. 

No.  78.— Dark  Blue.    (Violet  Shade.)  ^ 

100  lbs.  Extract  Merino,  not  very  dark  : 
Prepare  with 
14  oz.  Alkaline  Blue,  4  B., 
8  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  oft". 
Finish  with 
1  oz.  Acid  Magenta, 
6  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  at  140  deg,  ;   lay  1  hour;   heat  to  160  deg.  ; 
draw  oft". 

No.  79.— Bleach. 

200  lbs.  Extract  Seams,  not  washed  : 

Prepare  with 
26  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  oft". 

Finish  with 
11  lbs.  Chrome, 

14  Alum, 

15  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  rags  ;  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  80.— Brown. 

100  lbs.  Extract  Seams,  not  washed  : 
8  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 


118  THE   dyer's   PRACTICAE  GUIDE. 

5  lbs.  Extract  Hypernic, 
2  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Logwood, 

4  1-2  Camwood, 
1  1-4  Soda-ash. 

Enter  rags  ;  boil  1  1-4  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  81.— Peacock  Blue. 

200  lbs.  Old  White  Flannels  that  were  picked  before 
coloring  and  not  extracted. 
Prepare  dye-bath  with 

8  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    6  E., 
10  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock;  boil  1  1-2  hours;  draw  off. 
Sour  with 

9  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  stock  at  140  deg.  ;  lay  1-2  hour ;  draw  off. 

No.  82.— Prussian  Blue. 

100  lbs.  Extract  Seams,  not  washed  : 
Prepare  with 

5  lbs.  Red  Prussiate, 
4        Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  rags  at  120  deg.,  then  heat  up  slowly  to  a  boil ; 

take  up  rags. 
Add  to  the  dye 
8  oz.  Aqua  Ammonia, 
8  1-2  oz.  London  Methyl  Violet.    4  B. 
Enter  rags  again  at  140  deg.,  then  heat  to  160  deg.  ;  lay 
1  hour  ;  draw  off. 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


119 


No.  83.— Blue  Green. 

100  lbs.  Extract  Seams,  not  washed: 
Prepare  with 
18  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    4  B., 
8  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  ;  boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  off. 
Finish  with 
2  lbs.  Picric  Acid, 
2        Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  stock  at  160  deg  ;  lay  1  hour  ;  draw  off. 

No.  84.— Acid  Maroon. 

lOt)  lbs.  Extract  Seams,   not  washed  : 

Prepare  with 

5  lbs.  Chrome, 
14        Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  rags  and  boil  1  hour ;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 
11-4  lbs.  Acid  Maroon. 

Enter  stock  and  lay  1  hour  at  160  deg.  ;  draw  oft. 


No.  85. -Dark  Yellow  Green. 

100  lbs.  Extract  Seams,  not  washed  : 
Prepare  with 
10  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    4  B, 
8  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  stock  and  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 


12U 


THE  dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Finish  with 
2  1-4  lbs.  Picric  Acid, 
1  1-2        Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  rags  and  lay  at  150  deg.  for  1  hour ;  draw  oft'. 

No.  86.— Sample  of  Shoddy.  ^ 

Sample  of  Merino  Rag  Extract,  not  washed  from  acid, 
that  No.  7  was  colored  from. 

No.  87.— Brown. 

100  lbs.  Extract  Seams,  not  washed  : 
8        Extract  Quer-citron  Bark, 
1  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Logwood, 
10  lbs.  Extract  Fustic  Liquor,  51  deg., 
4         Blue  Vitriol. 
When  putting  in  stock,  thrown  on 
15  lbs.  Camwood. 
Boil  rags  11-2  hour  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  draw  oft'. 


No.  88.— Green. 


100  lbs.  Extract  Merino,  not  washed  : 

Prepare  with 

5  3-4  lbs.  Chrome, 
^  19  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 

Enter  rags  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  oft'. 

Finish  with 

9  lbs.  Extract  Indigo'. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


121 


Enter  rags  at  1.50  deg.  and  lay  1  hour;  take  up  rags  and 
add  to  the  dye 

1  lb.  Picric  Acid. 

Enter  stock  again  and  lay  1-2  hour;  draw  off. 

No.  89.— Seal  Brown. 

600  lbs.  Dark  sorted  Merino  Rags,  no  cotton,  not  extracted  : 
Prepare  with 
10  lbs.  Chrome, 
7        Oxalic  Acid. 

Enter  rags  and  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

Finish  with 
20  lbs.  Extract  Hypernic, 
12        Extract  Fustic. 
12        Extract  Qiier-citron  Bark, 
12         Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  rags  and  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  off. 

No.  90.— Dark  Blue.    (Indigo  Shade.) 

100  lbs.  Extract  Seams,  not  washed  : 

Prepare  wiXi 
18  oz.  Nicholson  Blue.    4  B, 
10  lbs.  Sal-soda. 

Enter  rags  and  boils  1  1-4  hours  ;   draw  off. 

Finish  with 

3  oz.  Acid  Magenta, 

2  lbs.  Oil  Vitri^ol. 

Enter  stock  at  150  deg.  ;  lay  1  hour  ;  draw  oft\ 


122 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


No.  91.— Shoddy.  ^ 

Sample  of  Extract  Merino  Rag  Shoddy  that  numbers 
11,  29,  and  88  were  colored  from. 


No.  92.— Olive. 


100  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Rags : 
26  Tumeric, 


10        Oxalic  Acid, 
10        Nitric  Acid. 
Enter  rags  boiling  and  boil  1-2  hour,  not  any  longe: 
draw  off  and  cool  dow^n. 


No.  93.— Olive.  ' 

300  lbs.  Dark  Extract  Merino  Rags :  A 
60  Tumeric, 
40        Oxalic  Acid, 
2  gallons  Nitric  Acid. 
Enter  rags -boiling  and  boil  1-2  hour,  not  any  longe: 
draw  off  and  cool  down. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


123 


REMARKS 


ON   COTTON  DYEING. 

Having  colored  with  these  receipts  for  some  time,  they 
can  be  fully  relied  on  as  practical. 

You  will  find  observations  attached  to  such  of  them  as 
will  require  any  change  from  the  usual  way  or  mode  of 
dyeing.  In  making  up  the  liquors  according  to  the  re- 
ceipts, care  must,  at  all  times  be  taken,  to  have  all  the 
solutions,  when  ready  for  the  cotton,  free  from  all  ground 
or  chipped  dyestuffs  and  all  undissolved  coloring  matter. 
The  liquors  must  be  clear,  and  all  the  solutions  of  the 
ingredients  held  in  solution.  If  you  have  to  use  sumac  or 
any  ground  dyestuffs,  boil  them  out  in  a  barrel  or  some 
convenient  vessel,  and  add  the  clear  solution  to  the  dye- 
bath  ;  but  is  more  convenient  to  use  the  extracts  as  they 
contain  more  tannin,  or  astringent  principle  than  the  rough 
dyestuffs,  which  has  a  great  affinity  for  cotton.  In  using 
the  extract  you  can  keep  the  dyeing  liquors  at  about  the 
same  strength,  and  for  a  long  time,  by  fishing  out  the  cot- 
ton from  the  tub,  after  each  dip.  Always  have  the  cotton 
well  teased  before  entering. 

Note. — All  the  shoddy  and  wool  samples  in  the  Pattern 
Book  were  not  washed  after  carding,  therefore  care  must  be 
taken. 


124 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


4 


Receipts  for  Cotton. 


No.  1.— Dark  Brown. 

150  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 

Prepare  with 
40  lbs.  Chip  Logwood, 
30         Chip  Hy pernio . 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
50  lbs.  Cutch, 

6  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  ;  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  6  hours  ;  take  out. 
Finish  with 
12  lbs.  Chrome, 
1  Soda-ash. 
Enter  cotton  at  160  deg.  ;    boil  1  hour;    lay  2  hours; 
draw  off. 

No.  2. —  Brown. 

150  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
Prepare  with 
33  lbs.  Chip  Logwood, 
40        Chip  Hypernic. 
Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 


THE   dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


125 


50  lbs.  Cutch, 
6        Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  ;  boil  11-2  hours  ;  lay  3  hours. 
Finish  with 
12  lbs.  Chrome, 
2  Soda-ash. 
Enter  cotton  at  160  deg.  ;  boil  11-2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;. 
draw  off. 

No.  3.— Light  Brown. 

166  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 

Prepare  with 
30  lbs.  Chip  JLogwood, 
30        Chip  Hypernic. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
55  lbs.  Cutch, 

6  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  ;  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  6  hours  ;  take  out. 
Finish  with 
9  1-2  lbs.  Chrome, 
4  lbs.  Soda-ash. 
Enter  cotton  at  130  deg.;   boil  3-4  hour;    lay  2  hours; 
draw  off. 

Wo.  4.— Fawn  Drab. 

50  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
Prepare  with 

7  1-2  lbs.  Cutch, 

2  1-2        Blue  Vitriol, 


126 


THE   dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


4  lbs.  Chip  Hypernic. 

Enter  cotton  ;  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  all  night  or  5  hours  ; 

take  out  and  whiz.  . 
Finish  with 
1  1-4  lbs.  Chrome, 
Enter  cotton  at  130  deg.  ;  boil  1  hour ;  lay  2  hours  ;  take 
out ;  draw  off. 

No.  5.-- Seal  Brown. 

150  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 

Prepare  with 
50  lbs.  Cutch, 

6        Blue  Vitriol, 
40        Chip  Logwood, 
30        Chip  Hypernic. 
Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out  and  throw  in  the  Cutch 

and  Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  cotton  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  6  hours  ;  take  out. 
Finish  with 
12  lbs.  Chronie. 
Enter  cotton  at  140  deg.;    boil  1  hour;    take  out  and 
draw  off. 

No.  6.—  Olive  Brown. 

250  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 

Prepare  with 
125  lbs.  Cutch, 

50        Extract  Logwood. 

25        Extract  Qiier-citron  Bark, 


THE  dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


127 


10  lbs.  Extract  Hypernic, 
7        Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  in  6  hours  ;  take  out. 
Finish  with 

7  lbs.  Chrome. 

Enter  cotton  at  140  deg.  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  2  hours  ;  take 
out. 

No.  7.-- Drab. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
Prepare  with 
32  lbs.  Chip  Logwood, 

8  Chip  Fustic, 
8        Sicily  Sumac. 

Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;    take  out ;    enter  cotton  ;  boil 

11-2  hours,  then 
Sadden  with 
3  lbs.  Copperas. 
Boil  1-2  hour  longer;  take  out. 

No.  8."  Rose. 

75  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
Prepare  with 
16  lbs.  Sumac, 
2  Flavine. 

Enter  cotton  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  lay  in  all  night ;  take  out. 
Acid  with 

6  lbs.  Oxy.  Mur.  Antimony. 


128 


THE   dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


Enter  cotton  cold  ;   lay  1  hour  ;   take  out ;   wash  well 

and  whiz. 
Finish  with 

13  oz.  Magenta  Crystals. 
Enter  cotton  at  120  deg.  ;   lay  in  1-2  hour  ;    heat  to  140 
deg.  ;  lay  3  hours  ;  take  out  or  draw  off. 

No.  9.—  Cardinal  Red. 

50  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
Prepare  with 
15  lbs.  Sumac. 
Enter  cotton  ;   boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  over  night ;  take 

out. 
Acid  with 

Oxy.  Mur.  Antimony  at  2  1-2  deg.  Twaddle. 

Enter  cotton  at  170  deg.  ;  lay  1  hour;   take  out,  wash, 

and  whiz. 
Finish  with 
1  lb.  Saffranine. 
Enter  cotton  at  130  deg.  ;  lay  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  whiz. 

No.  10.-- Scarlet. 

50  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
Prepare  with 
15  lbs.  Sumac, 
3  Tumeric. 

Enter  cotton  ;   boil  1  1-2  hours;   lay  over  night;  take 

out. 
Acid  with 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


129 


Oxy.  Muriate  Antimony  at  2  1-2  deg.  Twaddle. 
Enter  cotton  at  170  deg.  ;  lay  1-2  hour  ;  take  out,  wash, 

and  whiz. 
Finish  with 
11  oz.  Saffranine, 

5  Chrysoidine. 

Enter  cotton  at  130  deg.  ;  lay  1-2  hour  ;   take  out ;  whiz. 

No.  11.-- Dark  Fawn. 

400  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
14  Sumac, 

6  Extract  Fustic, 
4  3-4  lbs.  Flavine, 

10  lbs.  Cutch, 
3  3-4  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  cotton  ;  boil  1  hour  ;  lay  over  night ;  whiz  next  day. 

No.  12. -Fawn. 

400  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
10  Sumac, 
3  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 
3  1-2  Flavine, 
10  lbs.  Cutch, 
2  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  cotton  at  a  boil;    boil  1  1-2   hours;    lay  over 
night ;  whiz  next  day. 


130 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


No.  13.— Light  Fawn. 

400  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
10  Sumac, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 

3  1-2  Flavine, 
9  lbs.  Cutch, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  cotton  at  boil  and  boil  1,1-2  hours  ;  lay  over  night ; 
whiz  next  day. 

No.  14.— Drab. 

400  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
8  Sumac, 

1  Extract  Fustic, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Flavine, 
5  lbs.  Cutch, 

1  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  lay  over  night ;  whiz 
next  day. 

No.  15.— Snuff  Brown. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton: 
Prepare  with 
20  lbs.  Cutch, 
7        Extract  Fustic, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton;  boil  1  1-2  hours;  lay  4  hours;  take  out. 
Finish  with 

4  lbs.  Chrome. 


131 


THE  dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Enter  cotton  and  boil  1-2  hour  ;  lay  1  hour,  take  out  and 
whiz. 

No.  16.— Yellow  Brown. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
3  Cutch, 

10        Extract  Qiier-citron  Bark, 

2  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  ;  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  4  hours  ;  take  out. 
Finish  with 

3  lbs.  Chrome. 

Enter  cotton  and  boil  1-2  hour ;  lay  1  1-2  hours,  take 
out  and  whiz. 

No.  17.— Tan  Drab. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton: 
3  3-4  lbs.  Cutch, 
7  lbs.  Extract  Qiier-citron  Bark, 
2        Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  ;  boil  1  1-2  hours  ;  lay  4  hours ;  take  out. 
Finish  with 
2  1-2  lbs.  Chrome. 
Enter  cotton  and  boil  1  hour  ;  lay  1  1-2  hours ;   take  out 
and  whiz. 

No.  18.— Violet. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
Prepare  with 
20  lbs.  Sumac. 


132 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Enter  cotton  boil  1  1-2  hours ;  lay  over  night ;  take  out. 
Acid  with 

Ox.  Muriate  Antimony,  at  2  deg.  Twaddle. 
Enter  cotton  cold  and  lay  1-2  hour ;  take  out ;  wash  well 
and  whiz. 

Finish  with 
12  oz.  Violet.    2  B. 
Enter  cotton  at  100  deg.  ;  heat  to  120  deg.  ;   lay  1  hour ; 
take  out  whiz. 

No.  19.— Blue. 

■  100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
Prepare  with 
20  lbs.  Sumac. 
Enter  cotton  and  boil  1  j-2  hours;  lay  over  night:  take 
out. 

Acid  with 

7  lbs.  Oxy.  Muriate  Antimony. 

Enter  cotton  cold  ;   lay  1-2  hour  ;   take  out,  wash  well 

and  whiz. 
Finish  with 
14  oz.  Methylen  Blue.    3  O. 
Enter  cotton  at  100  deg.  ;   heat  to  120  deg.  ;   lay  1  hour  ; 
take  ou:  and  whiz. 

No.  20.— Dark  Green. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton: 
First  bath 

3  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


133 


Boil  cotton  40  minutes. 
Second  bath 

3  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Logwood,  . 
7  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 

1  Soda-ash. 

Boil  cotton  1-2  hour;  draw  off  and  wash. 

No.  21.— Light  Yellow  Green. 

100  lbs.  Cotton  : 
First  bath 

2  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 
Boil  cotton  40  minutes. 
Second  bath 

12  oz.  Extract  Logwood, 
6  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 

4  oz.  Soda-ash. 

Boil  cotton  1-2  hour  ;  draw  off  and  wash. 

No.  22.— Dark  Blue. 

300  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
22        Extract  Logwood, 
6  Soda-ash, 
4        Blue  Vitriol. 
Enter  cotton  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;   take  out ;    air  1  hour 
and  wash. 

Finish  with 

3  lbs.  Chrome, 

1  Soda-ash. 


134 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


Enter  cotton  at  100  cleg,  and  lay  15  minutes;  take  out 
and  whiz. 

No.  23.- Dark  Garnet. 

100  lbs.  Cotton: 
Prepare  with 
15  lbs.  Cutch, 
3         Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  and  boil  1  hour  ;  lay  4  hours. 
Mordant  with 
3  lbs.  Chrome. 

Enter  and  boil  1-2  hour  ;  take  out. 
Finish  with 

5  lbs.  Extract  Hypernic, 

1  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  and  boil  1  hour  ;  lay  1-2  hour ;  take  out. 
If  not  red  enough,  give  with  the  finishing  dye  3  oz.  of 
Magenta  Crystals. 

No.  24.— Light  Garnet. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
Prepare  with 
7  1-2  lbs.  Cutch, 

2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  and  boil  1  hour ;  lay  2  hours. 
Mordant  with 
2  lbs.  Chrome. 

Enter  cotton  and  boil  1-2  hour  ;  take  out. 
Finish  with 


THE   dyer's  practical  GUIDE.  135 

2  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Hypernic, 

8  oz.  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  and  boil  1  hour ;  lay  1-2  hour ;  take  out. 

No.  25.— Lavender. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
4  lbs.  Extract  Logwood. 
Enter  cotton  and  boil  1-2  hour. 
Sadden  with 

3  1-2  lbs.  Copperas, 
2  3-4  Alum. 

Boil  1-2  hour  longer ;  take  out  and  whiz. 

No.  26.— Dark  Brown. 

300  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 

Prepare  with 
100  lbs.  Cutch, 

9  Extract  Logwood, 

6  Blue  Vitriol. 

Enter  cotton  at  190  deg.  and  boil  2  hours ;  lay  3  hours  ; 
take  out. 

Mordant  with 
12  lbs.  Chrome. 
Enter  cotton  aud  boil  15  minutes ;  lay  1  hour  ;  take  out, 
wash  and  dry. 

Finish  100  lbs.  of  the  cotton  with 

7  lbs.  Extract  Logwood, 
1-2  lb.  Soda-ash. 

Enter  cotton  and  boil  1-2  hour ;  lay  3  hours ;  take  out. 


136 


THE  DYER  S  PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


No.  27.— Blue. 

50  lbs.  Silk  Noils  : 

Prepare  with 
16  quarts  of  good  Soft  Soap. 

Enter  silk  and  boil  1-2  hour  ;  take  out  and  whiz. 

Finish  with 

2  1-2  lbs.  Nicholson  Blue.    3  B, 
4  lbs.  Borax, 
2  Sal-soda. 

Enter  silk  at  130  deg.  and  lay  1-2  hour ;   then  boil 
1  1-4  hours,  take  out  and  whiz. 
Sour  with 

2  1-2  lbs.  Oil  Vitriol. 
Enter  silk  at  125  deg.  and  lay  1-2  hour;    take  out  and 
draw  oft^.  ' 

No.  28.— Orange. 

50  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 

Steep  the  cotton  over  night  in 
10  lbs.  Sumac. 

Take  out  next  morning;  whiz. 
Enter  cotton  in 

Oxy.  Muriate  Antimony,  2  deg.  Twaddle. 
Lay  in  1  hour  ;  take  out,  wash  and  whiz. 
Finish  with 
4  oz.  Chrysoidine. 
Enter  at  120  deg.  ;   heat  to  140  deg.  ;   lay  1-2  hour  ;  take 
out,  whiz  and  dry. 


THE  dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


137 


No.  29.— Light  Green. 

50  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 

Steep  the  cotton  over  night  with 
10  lbs.  Sumac, 

2  Tumeric. 

Take  out  next  morning  ;  whiz. 
Enter  cotton  in 

Oxy.  Muriate  Antimony,  2  deg.  Twaddle. 
Lay  in  1  hour ;  take  out,  wash  and  whiz. 
Finish  with 
8  oz.  Brilliant  Green. 
Enter  at  120  deg.  ;    heat  to  140  deg.  ;   lay  1  hour  ;  take 
out,  whiz  and  dry. 

No.  30.— Peacock  Blue. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 

Dissolve  , 

2  oz.  Cotton  Blue.    2  B., 

2  lbs.  Alum, 

1  1-4  lbs.  Extract  Fustic. 
Enter  cotton  at  a  boil ;  boil  1  hour  ;  draw  off  and  wash. 

No.  31.— Red. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 

Steep  the  cotton  over  night  with 
25  lbs.  Sumac. 
Take  out  next  morning;  whiz. 
Enter  cotton  in 


THE   dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


138 


Oxy.  Muriate  Antimony,  2  deg.  Twaddle. 
Lay  in  1  hour  ;  take  out ;  wash  and  whiz. 
Finish  with 

2  lbs.  Cotton  Scarlet,  (Blue  Shade.) 

Enter  cotton  at  140  deg.  ;  lay  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out  and 
whiz. 

No.  32.— Navy  Blue. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton,  (well  teased  :) 
Dissolve 
12  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Logwood. 
Enter  cotton  ;  boil  1  hour. 
Sadden  with 

3  lbs.  Copperas. 

Boil  15  minutes  longer ;  then  add  in  the  same  dye 

4  oz.  Violet.    4  B., 
1-2  lb.  Oxalic  Acid'. 

Boil  for  15  minutes,  then  leave  to  cool  in  the  bath  ;  wash 
and  then  done. 

No.  33.— Olive. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
Prepare  with 
2  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol, 
4  1-2  Gambier. 

Enter  cotton  ;  boil  11-2  hours  ;  draw  oft'. 

Finish  with 

1  lb.  Extract  Logwood, 

6  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 


THE  dyer's  practical  GUIDE. 


139 


4  oz.  Soda-ash. 
Enter  cotton  at  140  deg.  ;  boil  1  hour ;   lay  1  hour,  take 
out  and  whiz. 

No.  34.— Navy  Blue.    (Indigo  Shade.) 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton: 

Lay  over  night  in 
20  lbs.  Sumac. 

Lift  next  morning  and  wring. 

Enter  cotton  in 
15  lbs.  Oxy.  Muriate  Antimony. 

Enter  cotton  cold  ;  lay  1  hour  ;  take  out,  wash  and  whiz. 

Finish  with 

7  oz.  Violet.    3  B., 

7  Diamond  Green, 

8  lbs.  Glauber  Salt, 

2  quarts  Acetic  Acid. 

Enter  cotton  at  100  deg.  ;  heat  up  rapidly  to  180  deg.  ; 
lay  to  shade  ;  take  out  and  wash. 

No.  35.— Slate  Drab. 

100  lbs.  Cotton  Waste  : 
Prepare  with 
8  lbs.  Alum, 

3  Blue  Vitriol, 

10        Chip  Logwood,  (boiled  1 1-2  hours.) 
Enter  cotton  at  150  deg.  ;  boil  1  hour;  draw  off;  take 

out. 
Finish  with 


140 


THE   dyer's   practical  GUIDE. 


22  lbs.  Chip  Logwood. 
Boil  bags  1  1-2  hours  ;  take  out ;  add 
2  lbs.  Pearl-ash. 
Enter  cotton  at  150  deg.  ;    boil  1  1-2  hours;    take  out; 
whiz  and  dry. 

No.  36.— Canary  Yellow. 

50  lbs.  White  Cotton  Waste  : 
15  Sumac, 
5  Tumeric. 
Enter  cotton  and  boil  11-2  hours  ;  take  out,  whiz  and  dry. 

No.  37.- Yellow  Scarlet. 

50  lbs.  Cotton  Waste  : 
Steep  the  cotton  over  night  in   Sumac,   testing  2  deg. 

Twaddle,  cold. 
Take  out  next  morning;  whiz. 
Enter  the  cotton  in 

Oxy.  Muriate  Antimony,  2  deg.  Twaddle. 
Lay  1  hour ;  take  out,  wash  and  whiz. 
Finish  with 
4  oz.  Saffranine, 
2  1-2  oz.  Chrysoidine. 
Enter  cotton  at  100  deg.  ;  lay  1 1-2  hours  ;  take  out,  whiz 
and  dry. 

No.  38.— Dark  Navy  Blue. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton,  (well  teased  :) 
Dissolve 
20  lbs.  Extract  Logwood. 


THE   DYER  S   PRACTICAL  GUIDE. 


141 


Enter  cotton  ;  boil  1  1-2  hours. 
Sadden  with 
6  lbs.  Copperas. 

Boil  1-2  hour  longer ;  then  add  to  the  same  dye 
6  oz.  Violet,  4.B., 
10         Oxalic  Acid. 
Boil  for  15  minutes  ;    leave  to  cool  in  the  bath  ;  then 
wash  and  done. 

No.  39.- Brown  Olive. 

100  lbs.  Raw  Cotton  : 
Prepare  with 
3  1-2  lbs.  Blue  Vitriol, 
8  lbs.  Gambier. 

Enter  cotton  at  170  deg.  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  oft\ 
Finish  with 

3  1-2  lbs.  Extract  Logwood, 
6  lbs.  Extract  Fustic, 
1-2  lb.  Soda-ash. 
Enter  cotton  ;  boil  2  hours  ;  draw  off  and  wash. 


I 


